Places impact you for a variety of reasons. And the same place impacts different people in different ways. This is especially true when it comes to spiritual experiences, where every single person’s experience is unique. And personally, every spiritual experience is unique, the same person can have different deeply spiritual experiences at different places, at different times. This thought has emerged because of my own experiences over the years, but especially so this year, with different and unique experiences at various places I have visited recently. I began this year with a visit to Baroda (Vadodara) with friends. It was meant to be a relaxed trip, a touristy trip, with our sons. We enjoyed ourselves to the hilt, but the highlight of that trip was a visit to the Lakulisha temple at Pavagadh. It was the iconography of the temple that I connected with, and I spent a few hours simply lost in the details of the figures carved around the temple. There was an indefinable connect with
The rain lashed at us, and the puny umbrella I was carrying was
practically of no use. Once again I cursed myself for not carrying a raincoat,
knowing well that I hated raincoats, and much preferred getting wet. It wasn’t getting
wet that I really minded, but holding on to the umbrella and trying to walk. There
were shops on either side, but most were closed. The few that were open offered
us scanty protection from the rain, but at least I could concentrate on not
slipping on the steps by walking under their awnings. We were walking towards a
temple which is believed to be the origin of one of India’s great rivers, and,
seeing the water flow beneath our feet, it was eminently believable!
This was about four months back, at the height of the monsoon,
we were visiting Mahabaleshwar. It rained constantly, as was to be expected,
and the fog was so dense that we could scarcely see anything beyond a few
yards. We had a beautiful room with a balcony where we could sit and enjoy the
rain. We could have chosen to sit inside and simply enjoy the weather, but we
chose to explore, beginning with the temples at Old Mahabaleshwar. That is
where we were, gingery feeling our way across the flooded path which led to the
Panchaganga Temple.
Panchaganga – the word means ‘Five Gangas’ or five rivers as
sacred as the Ganges, and this temple is believed to be the origin of not one
or two, but five rivers – the Krishna, the Gayatri, the Savitri, the Venna and
the Koyna. The temple here is an ancient one, built by the kings of Devgiri
(present day Daulatabad) and later renovated during Shivaji’s reign. Here are
five spouts over which are carved cows’ heads in stone, from which emerge the
five sacred rivers. The rivers flow out in different directions, but
eventually, all of them merge with the Krishna, who flows across Maharashtra,
Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh before merging with the sea. She is the third
longest river in India, and has scores of temples along her banks, of which
this is the first.
At normal times (any time it doesn’t rain), the temple is a
simple one, though filled with people, some bathing, some praying. In the rain,
the temple took on a completely different look – water gushed out of the cows’
mouths, the tank was overflowing, and was empty but for a couple of enthusiastic
boys enjoying themselves in the water. Fittingly, for a temple dedicated to
water, there was water everywhere! I don’t think I have enjoyed a visit to a
temple more!
There is also temple here, on the way back... dedicated to Lord
Shiva as Mahabaleshwar – the strong one. It is he who gives his name to the
town, though he is largely forgotten these days by visitors who enjoy the lake
and the strawberries more.
Walking a little higher to get a decent photograph, I could
barely stand straight. The wind was so strong, and the rain so heavy, I decided
to give up exploring for another time.
This is one of the places I have been to, a number of times,
yet, every single time, I see a different sight. The first time I visited the
temples, there was a festival in progress. We just had a quick darshan before
escaping from the crowd! That was long before I started my blog, else I would
have captured those colourful scenes then, which would have contrasted so
beautifully with the monotones of these photos! The second time I visited, the
temple was practically empty, but it was a bright, lush, green, all around! How
I wish I had a camera then! And yet, I would love to visit the temples
again..... see what else they can show me!
I am planning to go to Mahabaleshwar. Seems like a good place from your pics :)
ReplyDeleteThanks Puru! Its a really beautiful place... different, but just as beautiful in every season! and you can go even further from these temples and find some really beautiful places. We werent able to walk further thanks to the rain.
DeleteThe temples look mystical with all the fog and rains lashing...never been there
ReplyDeleteThe temples themselves arent all that interesting under normal conditions... the rain and fog made them so much more iteresting! u shd go sometime!
DeleteI visited Mahabaleshwar when I was in school in tour . I want to visit this place again. Thanks for sharing.Beautiful place.
ReplyDeleteMuch would have changes since then, Vishal! you shd make another trip!
DeleteEven though it might not be very inviting to walk in that rain, the photographs look awesome!
ReplyDeletehttp://rajniranjandas.blogspot.in/2013/01/old-goa-of-cathedrals-churches-chapels.html
Yes, Niranjan, it wasnt very inviting to walk in the rain, and neither was it easy to click photos... i almost spoilt my camera!! but it was worth all that!
DeleteWow..! Beautiful! Feel like being there at once..!
ReplyDeleteThanks Sridharan! nice to see u here after so long!
DeleteMahabaleshwar - panchgani is Such a place which looks diffrent in Diffrent seasons, and all seasons have it uniqueness in it...
ReplyDeleteJust yesterday I returned from Mahabaleshwar from this temple. I am searching for the history of the temple and I landed here in your blog. Thanks for creating such an informative blog and great photographs. I am searching for Origin of Krishna River, when it started, the mentions of the river in the Vedas and so on. My confusion is River Krishna is mentioned as Lord Vishnu in wiki but the temple is known as Krishnabai (Krishna here is also mentioned as feminine (the black)) but the residing deity is Shiv Linga. Can you show some light on this.
ReplyDelete