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Odisha Part 11: Discovering the Jaina Heritage of Odisha at the caves of Udaygiri and Khandgiri

The Hindu and Buddhist history of Odisha , or rather, ancient Kalinga, is rather well known to everyone. Who hasn’t heard of the grand temples of Odisha – Puri, Lingaraj and Konark, or the great war of Kalinga which inspired Ashoka to convert to Buddhism? In contrast, very few know of the Jaina heritage of this region. This is quite a pity, since, just around 7 km from the city, is one of India’s most ancient inscriptions, which throws light on the Jaina heritage of Odisha. This inscription is the Hathigumpha inscription of Kharavela, in the hills of Udaygiri. Udaygiri and Khandgiri are two hills located opposite each other, and both are testaments to the rich Jaina heritage of Odisha. The caves at Udaygiri are older, while Khandgiri is relatively newer, but has lasted much longer, and continues to be a place of pilgrimage for Jains even today. These hills, from inscriptions and excavations of caves, shrines and rock beds, appear to have been a haven for Jaina monks, right from the ...

Sunday evening in South Bombay- Museum and Nilambari

A visit to the Prince of Wales Museu m, or to give it its official name – Chhatrapati Shivaji Vastu Sangrahalay - was long overdue, and I decided to take Samhith there on Sunday, as we were all alone in the house and there was nothing to be done at home. We started from home after lunch and took a train to VT (forgive me if I use the old names – the new ones don’t come all that easily to me). We were lucky to get one of the new trains, and Samhith was delighted, especially the announcements about the next station! I had planned to walk to the museum, but it was too hot, so I decided to indulge, and took a taxi to the Gateway of India, where we reserved seats on the Nilambari – the open deck bus which takes one around the heritage buildings of Fort and Colaba. We then headed to the Museum, which was something I was looking forward to, since I hadn’t been there in ages! I guess the last time I visited was when I was in school!! I used to think that maybe Samhith would...

A Visit to the Gateway of India

After a long time, we visited the Gateway of India . The days I spent in the same area, walking around peacefully, sitting down to have my packed lunch by the sea, seems aeons ago.. The difference between then and now is mainly in the security. I have never seen so many security guards anywhere - no, not even at the airport!!! The crowds are just the same , except that most of them are now gaping at the Taj - and looking for any left-over vestiges of the terror attack. Most cameras too are focussed, not on the monument which gives the place its name, but on the Taj Mahal Hotel and the Taj Intercontinental! When I was reading the inscription on the gateway aloud to Samhith, at least a few people turned round to look at the spectator who seemed more interested in ancient rather than recent history!! Half of the area around the gateway has been cordoned off, and the half that is free is full of those going aboard the boats, and those who have managed to snare places to sit on the parapet...