Places impact you for a variety of reasons. And the same place impacts different people in different ways. This is especially true when it comes to spiritual experiences, where every single person’s experience is unique. And personally, every spiritual experience is unique, the same person can have different deeply spiritual experiences at different places, at different times. This thought has emerged because of my own experiences over the years, but especially so this year, with different and unique experiences at various places I have visited recently. I began this year with a visit to Baroda (Vadodara) with friends. It was meant to be a relaxed trip, a touristy trip, with our sons. We enjoyed ourselves to the hilt, but the highlight of that trip was a visit to the Lakulisha temple at Pavagadh. It was the iconography of the temple that I connected with, and I spent a few hours simply lost in the details of the figures carved around the temple. There was an indefinable connect with
A huge horse towers over you, and
the rider stares down. The image is so realistic, you find yourself looking up
at him, wondering who he was, and why he has such a supercilious look on his
face. It is easy to forget you are looking at a painting… it is not just any
painting, though, but one of the works of Anthony Van Dyck – Portrait of a
nobleman on his horse.
On another frame, Neptune rides
the waves, his trident by his side, horses he created from the foam rearing up
to go…. Behind him are ships he is protecting, from the fury of the skies. At
first, all you can see in the skies are clouds. A second look shows you the
chubby figures blowing the wind with their rounded cheeks, one carrying
lightning. A little beyond, a dark cloud seems to be letting out tentacles,
waiting to grasp the ships, but Neptune’s outstretched arm seems to be warning
them away. Time seems to have stood still, in this depiction of Peter Paul
Rubens’ ‘Neptune abates the storming waters’.
Another wall is covered with
prints – of copper engravings. One of them shows an old woman with a lit candle;
and her grandson smiles up at her, as he tries to light his own candle from
hers. The smile on their faces stands out in the candle light, every wrinkle on
the grandmother’s face and clothes clearly visible, as is the glint in the
grandson’s eye. Above all, it is the play of light which stands out, which is
only affirmed by the caption at the bottom – a quote by Pliny to the effect that
artists who could depict candle light or torch light were highly respected. That
the artist was a master, is not something we need that quote to tell us, but
the addition of the quote tells us so much of the artist himself – once again,
Peter Paul Rubens, this time, with Paulus Pontius. Looking at these engravings,
you are sure to wonder if engraving isn’t a greater art than painting itself!
Then you move to another wall,
and all your respect for painters comes surging back, as you stand in front of
a huge landscape. The sea is in the distance, and you seem to be standing atop
a hill. Closest to you is a thick forest, and every tree shows incredible
details. Ahead are the plains, with lush green fields stretching ahead, and
then, the sea itself. The prominent colours are blue and green, and little else
is visible at first. It takes second, and even third looks, to notice that
there are villages depicted too – a cluster of houses here, a church there,
windmills in the distance, a herd of cattle, a mountain stream, a lake, and
even canals amidst the fields! Over the sea are clear, white clouds, while
elsewhere are black clouds, a closer look shows us that it is raining over the
fields, and yes, there is a rainbow too!! Simply titled ‘Landscape with a
rainbow’ by Lucas Van Uden, this painting serves to remind us that photography
can never match up to the art of painting!
And then, there are the genre
paintings, which show so much detail, that you can just stand there and notice
the little things for a long, long time. ‘The old ox market in Antwerp’ by Peeter
Van Bredael shows not just a whole lot of cattle, but also manages to show us
the people and the city of Antwerp of that era. Amidst those are small things,
like a pickpocket at work, and children playing games on the street. These are
not paintings meant for a glance, but to return to, and discover new things,
again and again!
Normally, you would need to make
a trip to Belgium, or specifically, to Antwerp, to the Royal Museum of Fine
Arts, and the Plantin-Moretus Museum, to see these masterpieces. However, you
now have a chance to see them, in Mumbai itself. The Royal Museum is under
renovation, and the paintings are touring the world. Thanks to the efforts of
our very own Mumbai Museum, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya,
these masterpieces are on display at the Museum, and will be here till the 9th
of February, 2014.
What I have described above are
just few of the many, many, beautiful works of art which have come all the way
from Antwerp to Mumbai. I have chosen to show you, through my description, one
from every genre on display – religious themes, portraits, genre paintings,
landscapes, and prints from copper engravings. It is my hope that my
description encourages you to go see these masterpieces for yourselves, and discover
more on your own. I can only assure you that it will be an experience you will treasure!
Information:
- There is no separate entry fee to view the gallery. The Museum ticket covers this.
- The museum will remain open on all days, from 10:15 AM to 6:00 PM (entry till 5:45 PM), except 26th Jan, when the museum will remain closed for Republic Day.
- Please do not worry about not being well informed about the arts, because each of the paintings have detailed explanations. A handbook is also available to give you more information. Besides, art students from various colleges are around, from 11:00 AM to 2:30 PM, to give you a free guided tour.
- There is lots for the kids too. It is amazing to see the details you miss and kids notice. So, please take your kids along. Besides, there is an activity area for the children, where they can keep themselves occupied while you immerse yourself in the paintings. Here, they (and even you) can try on clothes like those used in 17th century Europe, and even get your photographs taken.
- Photography, incidentally, is prohibited here.
- For more information, visit the Museum Website: http://www.csmvs.in/museum-events/flemish-masterpieces-antwerp-exclusive-paintings-17th-century
The paintings are on display at
the Museum for almost 2 months more, so, if you are in Mumbai, do not miss this
opportunity!!
Great Info, I am big fan of such paintings and was planning a trip to Bombay for early next year. Now I can time the visit with it.
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So good to hear this, Empty Rucksack ! I certainly hope your plans work out and you get to see these in Mumbai!
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