Skip to main content

Featured Post

Odisha Part 11: Discovering the Jaina Heritage of Odisha at the caves of Udaygiri and Khandgiri

The Hindu and Buddhist history of Odisha , or rather, ancient Kalinga, is rather well known to everyone. Who hasn’t heard of the grand temples of Odisha – Puri, Lingaraj and Konark, or the great war of Kalinga which inspired Ashoka to convert to Buddhism? In contrast, very few know of the Jaina heritage of this region. This is quite a pity, since, just around 7 km from the city, is one of India’s most ancient inscriptions, which throws light on the Jaina heritage of Odisha. This inscription is the Hathigumpha inscription of Kharavela, in the hills of Udaygiri. Udaygiri and Khandgiri are two hills located opposite each other, and both are testaments to the rich Jaina heritage of Odisha. The caves at Udaygiri are older, while Khandgiri is relatively newer, but has lasted much longer, and continues to be a place of pilgrimage for Jains even today. These hills, from inscriptions and excavations of caves, shrines and rock beds, appear to have been a haven for Jaina monks, right from the ...

Anegundi Part 7 - A Walk along the Tungabhadra


It is impossible to miss the Tungabhadra, especially at Anegundi. The shortest way to get there is to cross the river by a boat or coracle, and most of the places there are located somewhere along the river. The last place we visited at Anegundi was on our way back to Hampi after visiting the Pampa Sarovar. We crossed a makeshift bridge made of fallen pillars laid across a stream merging into the Tungabhadra, and climbed up a hillock which would take us to a point right opposite the ghats of Hampi. On the way, we were told, was the cave where the monkey king Sugriva lived. We briefly entered the cave through the temple-like structure built at the entrance before moving on to other, more interesting things….




As we walked towards the river from the hill, we saw many more temples along the route. They were being renovated, so we couldn’t enter any. I wonder what they will look like once the renovation is completed!




The river was visible from a distance all the time… especially the huge stone pillars which once held the only bridge to have spanned this river. (Recently, efforts were made to build a new bridge, but environmental and heritage activists opposed it on the grounds that since the entire city was a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a modern bridge would mar the ancient beauty. Work went on, regardless, till a part of it fell into the river. That put an end to the bridge, at least for now!)



Incidentally, the makeshift bridge we had walked across earlier was made of some of these pillars; thankfully, they at least didn’t have any carvings on them!



We crossed the river by a coracle, but had to walk some more to get to the ghats where our driver was waiting. Here are some sights from the path along the Tungabhadra….







We finally reached the ghats, and walked towards the road…. Here, the path was paved by more stones… many of them found here... it is not uncommon to walk on rocks with markings, and we wondered what these were…..



Our guide pointed towards one of the stones on the floor and said, “Look, it’s a stone dagger!” Indeed, it did resemble one! It was fun to look for shapes on the flooring!



The path would lead us to the road, and thence on to the other places on our itinerary. 



It was time to bid goodbye to Hampi and Anegundi, and this was probably the best place for it! As we stood facing the river, on one side, we could see the spire of the Virupkasha temple, and on the other, the boulder covered hills of Anegundi. 



The river had flown quietly for years while kingdoms had come and gone, as an empire lay forgotten under rubble, and as time went past! The river continued to flow as people came from all over the world to see what was left of one of the greatest empires in India, and indeed, I wondered what the river would see in the future after we were all gone! This brings me a full circle. I began this series with a post on the rocks and boulders – Stones do speak – and I complete the series with this post on the river. These rocks and the river are, after all, the constants through the passage of time! What a story it would be, if only they could speak, or rather, if only we could hear them!

 











Enhanced by Zemanta

Comments

  1. Very detailed Info.. Nice posts.  I had recently been to Hampi, loved the place...
    Below blog is on my Experience in Hampi..
    http://relivingmyfavouritemoments.blogspot.com/search/label/HAMPI-ANEGUNDI-KUDALASANGAMA-BADAMI-AIHOLE-PATTADKAL

    ReplyDelete

Post a Comment

Thanks so much for stopping by. Please leave a comment for me so that I will know you have been here....

Popular posts from this blog

Gokarna Part II – The Five Lingams

We continued our Gokarna trip by visiting four other Shiva temples in the vicinity, all connected to the same story of Gokarna. The story of Gokarna mentions the Mahabaleshwara Lingam as the one brought from Kailas by Ravana, and kept at this place on the ground by Ganesha. (See my earlier post- Gokarna – Pilgrimage and Pleasure). However, the story does not end here. It is believed that, in his anger, Ravana flung aside the materials which covered the lingam- the casket, its lid, the string around the lingam, and the cloth covering it. All these items became lingams as soon as they touched the ground. These four lingams, along with the main Mahabaleshwara lingam are collectively called the ‘ Panchalingams’ . These are: Mahabaleshwara – the main lingam Sajjeshwar – the casket carrying the lingam. This temple is about 35 Kms from Karwar, and is a 2 hour drive from Gokarna. Dhareshwar – the string covering the lingam. This temple is on NH17, about 45 Kms south of Gokarna. Gunavanteshw...

Newasa - Encountering an unique form of Vishnu, and Sant Jnaneshwar

The year was 1290 . A crowd had gathered around a clearing, where broken down pillars marked the presence of an ancient temple, now long gone. A young boy, just 14 years old, leaned against one of those pillars, deep in thought. Then, he began speaking, and the crowd fell silent, listening to his every word. He spoke without any notes, translating the Bhagavat Gita, from Sanskrit, which only the pundits knew, to the language everyone in the village knew and spoke – a variety of Prakrit which developed into the Marathi language. Even as he spoke, one of the men in the audience realized how momentous this event was, and how important this composition would be. He began writing down the words the young boy spoke, and this composition was named by its author and composer, the Bhavartha Deepika – the enlightening meaning (of the Bhagavat Gita). Now, the ancient, holy text, was no longer restricted to the pundits, but accessible to all, understood easily by them, composed as it was, in their...

Rama Temple, Gokarna

To my right , the waves rush to the shore, eager to merge with the sand. To my left, the same waves crash against the rocks, their spray diverting my reverie as I ponder over the beauty of nature, and wonder what first brought people here. Was it this beauty that encouraged them to build a temple here, or was it the fresh, sweet spring water flowing from the hill here that made this place special? No matter what the reason, I am glad my auto driver brought me here. We are at the Rama temple in Gokarna, just a few minutes away from the Mahabaleshwara Temple, yet offering so different a perspective.