The absence of ancient Hindu structures in Kashi is something I have always lamented about. The shrines are certainly ancient, and that is something that has always attracted me to the city. However, I miss the beauty of the ancient structures that we see at other sites. This feeling is intensified when I see marble and concrete and tiles in temples that once would have been beautifully adorned with evocative sculptures, and worn by the passage of time, touched by the hands of seekers who came before. This time , this desire to see some remnants of an ancient Hindu structure in Kashi came true when I managed to visit the Kardameshwar Temple. The Kardameshwar temple is not one of the main temples in the city. It is part of the temples on the Pancha Kroshi yatra, a pilgrimage which takes one on a circumambulatory tour of the whole city. The temple is located on the outskirts of the city, on the western bank of a tank called the Kardama Kund. The Kardameshwar temple is one of the...
Rameswaram Temple If Varanasi is the heart of the land that is India , Rameswaram is the foot. A journey to Kashi is invariably linked with a visit to Rameswaram. Aeons ago, it was Rama who consecrated the lingam at Rameswaram to atone for his sin of killing Ravana and all the other Rakshasas. Much, much later, in the holy city of Varanasi, Tulsidas made His story available for the common man in his own dialect with the Ramcharitmanas. At Rameswaram, the lingam is bathed with many materials, as in all places but the most important of them all is the water of the holy Ganges, obtained all the way from Varanasi. All through the year, the temple is thronged by devotees from all over India, all carrying a brass or copper pot of Ganges water as an offering to the lord. As at Varanasi, the rites to one’s forefathers occupy an important part of a journey to Rameswaram. The Teertha Shrardham at Rameswaram is traditionally performed at Dhanushkodi, the farthest point of India in this directio...