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Odisha Part 10: Bhubaneshwar – the city of temples

Bhubaneshwar is often called the city of temples . It is impossible to know exactly how many temples there are, but it has been estimated that there might be over 700 temples in the city. This number, while impressive, is just a fraction of the original number, which, sometime in the 13 th century, would have been about 7000. Wikipedia has a page dedicated to the Hindu temples of Bhubaneshwar , where 93 temples are listed. All these are ancient temples, built between the 7 th and 13 th centuries CE. Bhubaneshwar was once known as Ekamra Kshetra , the sacred mango grove. We know this name from an inscription at the Ananta Vasudeva temple, which mentions the name of the place, and the main temple (that we now know as the Lingaraja temple) in the mango grove. Ananta Vasudeva Temple, with a sculpture of Trivikrama in the niche It is extremely interesting to note that the Ananta Vasudeva temple is the only temple to Lord Vishnu in this city. Varaha, Ananta Vasudeva Temple Located v...

The Bazaar at Amer

Near the exit of Amer Fort , two huge vats or vessels attract our attention. They look big enough to cook food, and we assume these are a couple of the relics left over from the olden days. However, the guide is quick to correct us. These are props from a film which was shot here - Jodha Akbar. He says they didnt take it back, and there was no place inside the fort for them, so here they are, where they will be noticed, but  not really a part of the fort. 

Snake Charmer

Ever since I started sending postcards, I have been inundated with requests for postcards showing snake charmers. When I did find some, I realised something else. I might not be a great fan of snake charmers, but Samhith hadn't even seen a single one!!! He hoarded all the cards I found, and refused to allow me to send any but duplicates! Moreover, he was now curious. He wanted to see a snake charmer!!! I told him about what they did, how it was cruel to snakes, and that it was illegal, but he was still curious. Now, apart from the fact that I do not like the idea of trapping snakes and using them to amuse people, I couldnt even find a snake charmer to show him... yes, for those of you who are wondering, our area remains immune to snake charmers even on Naga panchami day, and I couldnt remember when I had last seen one!! His wish was eventually fulfilled, of all places, at Amer Fort!!!

Amer Fort - Part 3

Part 1 and Part 2 of Amer Fort have been quite descriptive... probably much longer than needed, but I have had these photos for so long, I just had to use them!!!  From what I heard from a couple of people, the fort was in quite a bad shape till the last decade or so. Of course, not really in ruins as many other forts, but in a dilapidated condition nevertheless. Going over what I saw of the fort, it does look like a lot of work has been done, which is really commendable, considering the state of many such other heritage precincts in our country. It does make us think just how beautiful some of our other palaces, forts and temples would be, if we just took the pains to recreate the magic of those bygone days, and kept them well maintained.

Amer Fort - Part 2

When you think of a fort , you think of huge walls, cannons, turrets... and most of the forts I have seen are in quite a bad shape, having suffered during the wars they were built to brave. Which is why, Amer comes as a surprise. It looks more like a palace than a fort, and is remarkably well preserved, considering that it was built and enlarged from the 16 th to the 18 th centuries. Of course, one reason for this could be that Jaipur was quite a safe place during that period, seeing only minor skirmishes in the area, not full-fledged wars. It would also have helped that the rulers of Jaipur chose to side with the Mughal Emperors and thus earned their protection. Wars fought by the Rajputs of Jaipur were fought, not in Jaipur or Amer, but at other places, not only Rajasthan but all over the Indian Subcontinent. It was first Raja Man Singh, and later, his descendents, who built and beautified Amer. It is their combined efforts that we see today, and, it gives us a glimpse of the li...

Amer Fort - Part 1

Our first sight of Amber Fort was from one of the turrets of Jaigarh. Standing so high up, looking down at the Aravalli ranges stretching to the horizon, my first thought was that it blended beautifully with the mountains. The name ‘Amber’ comes, not from the English word for the colour, but is a derivation of the word “Amba” or the goddess. However, it is pronounced as ‘Aamer’. The spelling varies too, with both usages – Amber and Amer – being quite commonly used.