Skip to main content

Featured Post

The Elephanta Caves

The Elephanta Caves , located on Elephanta Island, or Gharapuri, about 11 Km off the coast of the Gateway of India, Mumbai, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A visit to these caves, excavated probably in the 6 th century CE, is awe-inspiring, and also thought-provoking. Over the years, I have visited the caves a number of times, and also attended a number of talks by experts in the fields of art, history and archaeology on the caves. Together, they help me understand these caves, their art, and the people they were created for, just a little bit better. Every new visit, every new talk, every new article I read about the caves, fleshes out the image of what the island and the caves would have been like, at their peak. I last wrote about the caves on this blog, in 2011, almost exactly 11 years ago. Since then, my understanding of the caves has, I would like to think, marginally improved. Hence this attempt to write a new and updated post, trying to bring to life, the caves of Elephan

A Temple tour during Diwali – Part 1

Diwali – The festival of lights…. Everything associated with this festival, celebrated in every nook and corner of this vast land of ours, is related to light and gaiety - new clothes, rows of oil lamps and candles (now replaced by serial lights) lighting up the house, whether a mansion or a hut, and of course, the fire crackers!

One of my most cherished memories of Diwali is the one I spent at Varanasi in 1989. Once our ritual oil bath early in the morning was done, we made our way to the Annapoorna Temple to have darshan of the golden image of the goddess which is taken out only that one day every year. We spent more than half the day in the queue at the temple, and were rewarded with a glance at the beautiful trinity of goddesses – Annapoorna in the centre, flanked by Bhoomi Devi and Sri Devi, all made of gold; and the tall image of Lord Shiva, made in silver, accepting Bhiksha (alms) from the goddess. Though we had but momentary darshan of this wonderful tableau, it is fresh in memory as if it were yesterday.

This year, we found ourselves unable to celebrate this great festival due to the sad demise of a relative. Diwali without light and celebrations is a gloomy prospect, and, trying to find a way out of it, we decided to use this opportunity to travel to Rameshwaram to complete our Kashi Yatra. (For more details about my Kashi Yatra, see my blog: What started out as a trip to my sister in-law’s place at Tiruppur and then the trip to Rameshwaram, soon blossomed into a full fledged tour of temples in and around Thanjavur, Kumbakonam and. Thiruvarur.

My mother – in – law is a veritable encyclopedia of temples all over India, and all of us love visiting them. While she retains all the details of temples in her memory, I have to rely on pencil and paper, and this time, the computer. This was to be a family trip, consisting of my in- laws, me, my husband and Samhith, and my sister – in – law, Sandhya, and her husband Sankar. While this was to be my first visit to this area, all of them had visited some of the temples earlier. Every one had their own idea of which temples to visit and which to skip. This area is veritably filled with temples, almost every village boasting of at least one Shiva or Vishnu Temple. Every temple has a story of its own, is huge, and has some thing worth talking about. It is said that it is virtually impossible to visit all the temples here in one birth. 10 days certainly wouldn’t be enough for all the temples we wanted to visit. After much searching on the net and with my mother – in –law’s help I made a long list of all the temples we wanted to visit, and finally decided that we would visit only the most important ones on the list preferably those which none of us had seen.

We started from Bombay on the 24th of October, taking a bus to Bangalore, as no tickets were available on any train, and flights are just too expensive these days. We booked the bus tickets through KSRTC, who have opened up their online booking portal to individuals. There were a couple of inconveniences though – the contact number given was no longer valid, we had to board the bus at Sion instead of Chembur, which would have been nearer for us, and finally, the bus was late. We reached early, and found ourselves with more than 2 hours of waiting ahead. Standing at Sion for two hours seemed impossible, and we took a cab to Siddhivinayak temple. The temple seemed almost deserted, for a change, and we had a wonderful darshan of the Lord. We thus started our temple tour with darshan of the elephant – headed God who steers us clear of difficulties. To me, it seemed a good omen to begin our trip on this note.

Finding myself with a camera while traveling in Bombay, I clicked photos incessantly of the kandeel-vendors selling their wares. I love these colourful lamp shades, and missed buying them, as I would have had I been here for Diwali.

From Diwali 08 - Thanjvur Trip

From Diwali 08 - Thanjvur Trip

From Diwali 08 - Thanjvur Trip

The bus, when it finally arrived at around 6PM, was extremely comfortable, and the night sped by quickly. The morning, however, proved to be difficult, for the bus was late once more, and we reached Bangalore only around 3PM. But that was not the end. We had to go to a cousin’s house at Marthahalli on the road to Whitefield, which took us another one and a half hours. We only had time to grab lunch and take a short nap before it was time to take our bus to Tiruppur. We had booked this one online through Red Bus and had never heard of the company running the bus. It turned out to be a sleeper bus run as a special for the Diwali season rush. The bus looked like it hadn’t been cleaned in years, and it was unwillingly that we got into it. Surprisingly, we did manage to get some sleep, and woke up only when it was morning. We wanted to alight at the point nearest to Tiruppur, but the driver was a novice who had no idea of the place (looked like he had been hired simply because he could drive, and wasn’t one of the regular drivers) and he dropped us off about 50 Kms from Tiruppur. We had to wait till Sandhya sent someone to pick us up.Samhith spent the time sitting on a bullock cart, half enjoying it, and half afraid of the bull running away with him in the cart!!!

From Diwali 08 - Thanjvur Trip

We finally reached her house around 11AM, much later than the time we had planned to leave for Rameshwaram.

We finally reached her house around 11AM, much later than the time we had planned to leave for Rameshwaram.

We finally began our long journey to Rameshwaram after lunch, three hours later than planned. The delay led to our giving a skip to the beautiful temple at Madurai, and rushing off directly to Rameshwaram.

Along the way we saw some beautiful such as a temple on top of a hill. We were in too much of a hurry to find out which temple it was, but it is surely worth a visit.

From Diwali 08 - Thanjvur Trip

While we were waiting at one of the many railway crossings, we happened to notice a group of women weaving coconut fibre into ropes. I have, of course seen this before, but this time we had lots of time, and Samhith loved the sight. The women were delighted to have their photos taken, and they happily let us try it out. Time thus passed by swiftly, and we reached Rameswaram in time for bed, having had dinner along the way at Ramanathapuram.

From Diwali 08 - Thanjvur Trip

From Diwali 08 - Thanjvur Trip

We spent Diwali morning at Rameshwaram, and moved to our home town at Nainar Kovil after lunch. We then drove straight to Thanjavur to spend the night.

We began our grand tour of temples the next morning, spending the nights at Kumbakonam, Mayiladudurai (Maayavaram), Thirunallar and Thiruvarur. By then, it was time for my husband and my brother – in – law to get back to work. We thus traveled to Trichy where we parted ways, me, Samhith and my mother – in – law going back to Thanjavur to cover the temples we hadn’t visited, the others getting back to work. We spent a day at Thanjavur and another at Kumbakonam, visiting more temples, and finally returning to Tiruppur on the 4th of November. We spent 3 days at Tiruppur, Samhith enjoying himself at his aunt’s house, before taking the train back to Bombay.

I freaked out throughout this trip, taking snaps left, right and centre, filling up almost 4MB of memory. It will take me some time to write all about my trip, and the temples we visited, so meanwhile, you can take a look at some of my photographs, and look out for my further posts………

flashvars="" height="267" pluginspage="" src="" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="400" />


  1. Thanks for sharing such wonderful pics of temples and your travelogues.

    In case you are still wondering about 'Along the way we saw some beautiful such as a temple on top of a hill. We were in too much of a hurry to find out which temple it was, but it is surely worth a visit.'
    From Diwali 08 - Thanjvur Trip

    it is Uchi Pillayar Kovil aka Rockfort temple. I don't know the precise details , but the rock on which the temple is built is very very ancient.

    thanks again!

  2. Dear Anonymous:

    Thanks for writing in, and glad you liked my blog....

    but the temple i mentioned is not the rockfort temple.. i have been there before.. thisis another temple near madurai. i believe it is a muruga temple, but am not sure of the name....



Post a Comment

Thanks so much for stopping by. Please leave a comment for me so that I will know you have been here....

Popular posts from this blog

The Havelis of Bikaner - A Photo Post

The lanes are narrow , twisting and turning amidst buildings old and new. Crumbling old structures with intricate workmanship stand side by side with art deco buildings, and more modern constructions, which follow no particular style. Autos, bicycles, motorcycles and vans rush past, blowing their horns as loudly as possible, while cows saunter past peacefully, completely unaffected by the noise. In the midst of all this chaos, children play by the side, and women go about their chores, as we explore these by-lanes of Bikaner, and its beautiful Havelis. Facade of one of the Rampuria Havelis

Ladakh - Planning The Trip

Over 2000 Km by road, in around 10 days. Stunning landscapes, wonderful people. That sums up our Ladakh trip. But how did it actually work? How did we make it happen? Read on to find out!  Leh, the capital of Ladakh , is accessible by air and road. Flying into Leh is the easiest, and time-saving option, while the road is the time consuming one, but with the added advantage of driving past some of the most beautiful landscapes in our country. Each option has much to recommend it, and we chose the road for just one reason – altitude sickness. Altitude sickness was one of my biggest concerns, since I suffer from motion-sickness. Yes, I do travel a lot, but that is despite my condition, and, over the years, have learnt how to handle it. I struggled with it when we visited Nathu-La in Sikkim, and wondered if I would be able to manage a week at the even higher altitudes that we would encounter in Ladakh. This was the reason we stuck to a basic plan, of only 9 days in Ladakh, though we

Bhedaghat - Home of the 81 Yoginis

The Narmada flows down the mountains , carving out a path for herself as she makes her way down to the plains of Central India. She cascades from the rocks, her fine spray making it appear as if billows of smoke (dhuan) arise from the flowing streams of water (dhaar), giving it the name Dhuandhar. Dhuandhar Falls The force of her flow creates a gorge , smoothening and carving out the rocks into fantastic shapes, the pure white of the rocks standing starkly against the shades of the water. It is a joy to cruise down the river in a boat, seeing the natural contours created by the river, now famous as the Marble Rocks. We are at Bhedaghat, located on the banks of the Narmada near Jabalpur, where thousands of visitors turn up to see these natural landscapes, creations of the sacred Narmada, and pay obeisance to her. However, to me, the most interesting thing about Bhedaghat, isn’t the falls or the rocks, or even the river. What makes Bhedaghat special is t