The year was 1290 . A crowd had gathered around a clearing, where broken down pillars marked the presence of an ancient temple, now long gone. A young boy, just 14 years old, leaned against one of those pillars, deep in thought. Then, he began speaking, and the crowd fell silent, listening to his every word. He spoke without any notes, translating the Bhagavat Gita, from Sanskrit, which only the pundits knew, to the language everyone in the village knew and spoke – a variety of Prakrit which developed into the Marathi language. Even as he spoke, one of the men in the audience realized how momentous this event was, and how important this composition would be. He began writing down the words the young boy spoke, and this composition was named by its author and composer, the Bhavartha Deepika – the enlightening meaning (of the Bhagavat Gita). Now, the ancient, holy text, was no longer restricted to the pundits, but accessible to all, understood easily by them, composed as it was, in their
The winding road led us deeper into the forest, and the
pouring rain ensured that miles passed before we saw a living soul. It was
clear that we were lost. A tiny hamlet was a sight for sore eyes, and its
amused residents informed us that we were indeed lost. We had taken the wrong
turn , and had no choice but to go back. We drove slower this time, intent on finding
our way, and thankfully, we did. As we stepped out of the vehicle and walked
down a narrow path, navigating the pools of water left by the heavy rain, I
wondered if the temple I had come all this way to visit was worth the long
drive, and especially, the detour. A slight curve brought the temple into view –
the wet, black stone in stark contrast to the lush green mountains of the
Western Ghats, and I knew that it was indeed worth it all!
We were at the Shiva Temple at Tambdi Surla, in Goa, nestled
within the protected environs of the Bhagwan Mahaveer Wildlife Sanctuary. When
it comes to heritage, Goa is known for its churches, but this temple is one of
the few reminders of the time before the Portuguese came to Goa and made it
their own.
The temple dates back to the 13th century, and is
believed to have been the handiwork of the Goa Kadambas. But even for them, it
would have been no easy task to build this impressive structure in the middle
of a dense forest, surrounded by nothing but wildlife. On the other hand, this
would have been the perfect site for a temple dedicated to Shiva, the Lord who
prefers his solitude. They couldn’t have chosen a better place!
At first glance, the temple is a simple structure built with
local basalt stone – the main sanctum or garbagriha
with a two tiered spire or vimana, a
small antarala (ante chamber), and a
Nandi mandapa or hall, with the pillars holding up a sloping
roof devoid of embellishments.
It is only as you go closer that you notice the details…. On
the pillars…
Elephant on a pillar....hunting? or war? |
Every pillar seems to be different. These rounded ones have some elaborate work on them. |
These are again different, and the chain work is intricate and painstakingly done! |
On the ceilings…
These ceilings remind me of some Jain Temples... |
while this is more typical.. |
On the outer walls…
The pattern on the walls outside is detailed too, and it appears the work on the layers below is unfinished.. |
And, on the vimana..
Brahma |
Bhairava.. see the dog by his side? |
Dancing Shiva |
It is interesting to note that though the temple is one
dedicated to Shiva, a number of these decorations depict Lord Vishnu. The
temple also bears resemblances to Jain temples of that era, and thus gives us
an insight into the blending of Shaivite and Vaishnavite thoughts, as well as the
influence of Jainism, during the reign of the Kadambas.
Shiva and Parvati |
Vishnu... with Garuda on his left |
Lakshmi Narayana |
The temple was deserted when we visited, and the only sound
we heard was the rippling of water from the stream which flowed nearby.
Soon, a
man came running, saying he had been delayed by the rain. He was the
caretaker-cum-priest, and he opened the sanctum so we could take a closer look.
As if on cue, the rain started again, stranding us inside, giving us time to
appreciate the interiors.
Outside the Garbagriha (the sanctum) |
Watching the rain water drip from the sloping roof into the
channels built into the mandapa, flowing out to the garden which is
surprisingly well maintained, I thanked the Gods for the rain, without which I
would have missed these tiny details!
As the rain finally stopped, and we readied ourselves for
the long ride back, I turned back for one last look. The caretaker sitting on
the porch, reading his newspaper, the fog rising behind the temple, covering
the mountains…. it was the perfect picture of serenity and peace. Wish we could
always live in such harmony with nature and the divine!
Information:
- Location: The temple is located near the small village of Tambdi Surla, 13 Km from Bolcornem village, in the north east region of the Bhagwan Mahaveer National Park. It is about 65 Km from Panaji and 22 Km from Valpoi.
- How to reach: There are a few buses which pass by, but the best way to reach here is to hire a car, preferably a local who actually knows the temple. Though there are boards, it is surprisingly easy to get lost!
- Where to Stay: There are no options for staying near the temple. The nearest options would be resorts within the Bhagwan Mahaveer National Park, though it is a better option to stay in Goa and hire a car to visit this temple.
This was originally posted on the Club Mahindra Blog.. you can read it here.
Goa has so much to offer one more place added to my next trip Goa.. amazing clicks
ReplyDeleteThank you, Shraddha! its a beautiful temple! Do go there and come back to tell us what you thought of it!
DeleteThe temple looks spectacular against the green background. Its got wonderful architecture too. Nice post.
ReplyDeleteThank you, Niranjan!
Deletenice post anu
ReplyDeleteThank you, Raji!
DeleteI visited last year monsoon while trekking to tambdi surla falls. We camped over a small bridge in the night n it was one of my most memorable trek. Indeed the temple looked more beauty in d rain n we enjoyed d monsoon rain almost 3 hours in this premises. We have to really appreciate to the care taker as such a remote place maintained very neatly.
ReplyDeleteThe falls must have been so beautiful, Sagar. Wish I could have gone there too, but unfortunately, that route is tough for me to trek :( And you are so right... the caretaker is certainly to be appreciated. it is no easy matter to maintain this place!
DeleteAnd I thought, I will spend time only on the beach side when I would visit Goa next time. This temple looks extremely beautiful. I'm sure there is much more to Goa than Beaches and Churches.. awesome pictures :)
ReplyDeleteThank you, Prasoon! Glad to have given you ideas of more places to visit in Goa!
DeleteEverybody knows Goa is famous for beaches but a few people known this kind of tourism places.I visited goa last in Dec-2013. At that time no one to say this kind of tourism places in goa my guide also didn’t tell to me. I saw only beaches.But next when i go to Goa i never miss this awesome place......
ReplyDeletePraveen
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Many guides also dont know such places, Praveen! Hope you get to visit next time!
DeleteIt also rained when we visited Mahadev Temple last year. That was around October I think, but it was a pretty nice experience still.. I just don't really like rain, in general. But it's truly stunning.
ReplyDeleteYes, Sofia, it does rain in October too, sometimes. though I visited in August, during the monsoon. I can understand why you don't love the rain, but somehow, I do :D and I think this particular temple should be seen in the rain, so I guess you really were lucky!
Deletebeautiful, I have been there in 2007 and 2009. Greetings, Dietmut
ReplyDeleteGood to hear you have been there, Dietmut! the temple must have been even more secluded then.
DeleteLucky you to get no one at the temple. When I went in December last, the place was full of tourists, picnicking groups and a Russian tourist group who reeked of drugs and walked around waving incense sticks at everyone and everything.
ReplyDeleteThe temple is really beautiful and I try to imagine what it must have been like all covered by the forest, when 'discovered'. I want to visit the temple in the rains once.
That is so sad, Sudha! I guess I was lucky to find the temple as I did... and maybe we should visit all places in off season! I cant imagine what it would been like when it was discovered... what excitement for the people,and how beautiful and pristine it would have been!
DeleteThe Temple looks spectacular. It is in my wish list for a very long time.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing.
thank you Aravind, hope you can visit soon!
DeleteYou have put some truly fabulous pictures on this blog. The images of stone carved elephants look incredible. I loved the ornately carved ceilings of the temples. They are truly impressive and artistic. Appreciate you for the marvellous share.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much, Varun!
DeleteRecently visited with my family.Beautiful nature welcomed us & lord Mahadev blessed us.Every narration of urs was well informative.
ReplyDeletethis place really a blessed location. you see temple's engineering, you would acknowledge how much agony has been taken by the experts who attempted to make this artful culmination.
ReplyDeleteI wanted to write so much buy have no words to express, I visited Goa twice but no one guided me to these temples, every one just guided me to the beaches, cafes and night clubs, Thank you so much anuradha ji fo sharing this!!
ReplyDeleteI really like your post!
ReplyDelete