Skip to main content

Featured Post

The Elephanta Caves

The Elephanta Caves , located on Elephanta Island, or Gharapuri, about 11 Km off the coast of the Gateway of India, Mumbai, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A visit to these caves, excavated probably in the 6 th century CE, is awe-inspiring, and also thought-provoking. Over the years, I have visited the caves a number of times, and also attended a number of talks by experts in the fields of art, history and archaeology on the caves. Together, they help me understand these caves, their art, and the people they were created for, just a little bit better. Every new visit, every new talk, every new article I read about the caves, fleshes out the image of what the island and the caves would have been like, at their peak. I last wrote about the caves on this blog, in 2011, almost exactly 11 years ago. Since then, my understanding of the caves has, I would like to think, marginally improved. Hence this attempt to write a new and updated post, trying to bring to life, the caves of Elephan

Moving on... from Dharamsala to Amritsar to Rishikesh

Amritsar wasn’t on the original itinerary for our #SummerTrip. The city was added to our plan simply because we were delayed in booking Shankar’s return flight, and the only convenient one available was from Amritsar! It was then that realization dawned – that Shankar had never visited the Golden Temple! Plans were at once re-modified, tickets booked, and I began to look forward to my third visit to the city!

Somewhere on the way to Amritsar...

When I told people we were taking the train from Pathankot to Amritsar, most suggested I would be better off hiring a car! “It’s a short journey. Why do you want to take a train?” But a train it was, for us, and we arrived at Pathankot station in a rush, having made an unexpectedly long halt at the Nurpur Fort along the way. We were tired, and hungry, and the train was late. The shops at the station only sold chips and packed snacks. Off we went in search of something more substantial to eat. Our search brought to us to a refreshment room at the other end of the platform, where an old couple told us they could make us pooris and subzi. We couldn’t have asked for anything more!

The refreshment room looked like it belonged to another era. An old hat/coat stand stood on one side, a relic from the past. The kitchen was old fashioned too, in a cavernous sort of way. The old couple were the only staff, and the rates they charged seemed to be from a different age too. “Only 9 puris to a plate. And 20 rupees for a plate.” they warned us, and seemed surprised when we didn’t bargain!

The puris, when they arrived, were piping hot, and the potato subzi just perfect. It was a filling meal, which we ate with relish. The train finally arrived, and off we headed to Amritsar. I have too few photos of the journey, since the light wasn’t good, but a journey through any part of India has its moments. From tiny village railway stations which are basically just a platform, to colonial structures which were once important halts along the route, there is always much to see and enjoy.

An old station... note the bell...

We arrived at Amritsar late, and found ourselves an inexpensive place to stay. Then, it was time to head to the temple. I was surprised to see the temple packed with devotees. It was then that I realized that I had never visited on a weekend!! We debated the issue of joining the queue for darshan, but fate intervened, and allowed us to jump the queue!! No, I am not sharing the secret of how that happened! After all, we aren’t always this lucky!

The Golden Temple, all lit up! I don't think I can ever tire of this temple, or this sight. No matter how many times I visit, I am still entranced by this sight. Besides, its always an incredibly peaceful and spiritually charged experience. 

Palkhi Sahib leaving the Golden Temple late at night, around 10:30 PM

The next morning, the first half of the day was for Shankar, which we spent eating, visiting the temple, and shopping, before dropping him off at the airport. The rest of the day passed too soon, with us whiling away the time at the museum within the Golden Temple. It was an interesting experience, but as Samhith put it, there was too much blood and gore. Well, what could I say, but explain to him what a long, violent history this beautiful place has had!

Golden Temple in the morning light (pic from a previous visit, in 2012)

a detail of Guru Nanak above the entrance... (pic from a previous visit, in 2012)

The other best thing about Amritsar... the garment industry. I love buying dress materials with phulkari work. Plus, they stitch it within just a few hours! What more can I ask for? 

Moving on, the day passed swiftly, and it was time for us to board our train. We arrived at the station well in time, and settled down for our train to arrive. Time passed and there was no sign of the train. Then, there was a sudden commotion and we realized that the train number had disappeared from the list of trains displayed. While the person at the inquiry counter assured us that the train would arrive on the same platform, on time, the few porters around shook their heads gravely and told us that the train was delayed, and that it would most probably arrive on another platform.

The confusion continued, and information remained unavailable. Meanwhile, Samhith was sleepy, and I was tired and irritated. All the other passengers were part of large, family groups, or single men. I was the only female around, alone, with a kid. I was starting to draw curious glances, which only irritated me further. And so time passed, and we simply sat and waited…..

And waited…..

And waited…..

It was almost midnight when there was a commotion once again. The train was arriving. Finally! On the other platform!

There was a mad rush for the few porters who still hung around. We weren’t lucky enough, and poor Samhith chipped in “Amma, I will carry my own suitcase” he bravely said, and carried his bags all the way up and down the staircase. Then, we had to find our seats, which were in a First Class coach on the other end of the platform. We heaved a sigh of relief when we eventually found our seats and settled in.

Then, the train seemed to be delayed further. Extra coaches were being added, said a policeman who came to check on us. “Close the door and windows” he insisted. “How does your family allow you to travel alone? They should have sent at least someone with you” he added, as an afterthought, on his next round. The TC came to check our ticket, and reiterated the policeman’s words. Both nodded sagely at each other, and shook their heads at me, clearly perturbed. Both hung around outside the window till the train eventually decided to set off.

Samhith meanwhile, was fast asleep!

Morning arrived, and we awoke just in time to get off at Raiwala Junction, our halt for Rishikesh. It was a relief to see our driver waiting for us, and off we headed to our final destination of the first half of the #summertrip!

One adventure was over, and another was just beginning. Coming up soon are more posts, about our Rishikesh experience!

This post is part of my series on my #summertrip 2015, and I hope to take you along with me as I recount stories from my month long trip, which took me across the country. To get an idea of all the places I visited, and what you can hope to read about, click here.  

Related Posts:

Related posts on Amritsar


  1. Very very well detailed. Beautiful pictures! I would never imagine having this kind of experience in Amritsar. Thank you for sharing your experience! Amritsar is an amazing place and you have explained it in a great manner. I really like your post. We are also providing  Taxi Services in Amritsar.


Post a Comment

Thanks so much for stopping by. Please leave a comment for me so that I will know you have been here....

Popular posts from this blog

The Havelis of Bikaner - A Photo Post

The lanes are narrow , twisting and turning amidst buildings old and new. Crumbling old structures with intricate workmanship stand side by side with art deco buildings, and more modern constructions, which follow no particular style. Autos, bicycles, motorcycles and vans rush past, blowing their horns as loudly as possible, while cows saunter past peacefully, completely unaffected by the noise. In the midst of all this chaos, children play by the side, and women go about their chores, as we explore these by-lanes of Bikaner, and its beautiful Havelis. Facade of one of the Rampuria Havelis

Ladakh - Planning The Trip

Over 2000 Km by road, in around 10 days. Stunning landscapes, wonderful people. That sums up our Ladakh trip. But how did it actually work? How did we make it happen? Read on to find out!  Leh, the capital of Ladakh , is accessible by air and road. Flying into Leh is the easiest, and time-saving option, while the road is the time consuming one, but with the added advantage of driving past some of the most beautiful landscapes in our country. Each option has much to recommend it, and we chose the road for just one reason – altitude sickness. Altitude sickness was one of my biggest concerns, since I suffer from motion-sickness. Yes, I do travel a lot, but that is despite my condition, and, over the years, have learnt how to handle it. I struggled with it when we visited Nathu-La in Sikkim, and wondered if I would be able to manage a week at the even higher altitudes that we would encounter in Ladakh. This was the reason we stuck to a basic plan, of only 9 days in Ladakh, though we

Bhedaghat - Home of the 81 Yoginis

The Narmada flows down the mountains , carving out a path for herself as she makes her way down to the plains of Central India. She cascades from the rocks, her fine spray making it appear as if billows of smoke (dhuan) arise from the flowing streams of water (dhaar), giving it the name Dhuandhar. Dhuandhar Falls The force of her flow creates a gorge , smoothening and carving out the rocks into fantastic shapes, the pure white of the rocks standing starkly against the shades of the water. It is a joy to cruise down the river in a boat, seeing the natural contours created by the river, now famous as the Marble Rocks. We are at Bhedaghat, located on the banks of the Narmada near Jabalpur, where thousands of visitors turn up to see these natural landscapes, creations of the sacred Narmada, and pay obeisance to her. However, to me, the most interesting thing about Bhedaghat, isn’t the falls or the rocks, or even the river. What makes Bhedaghat special is t