My first trip to Vaishnodevi was unimpressive. Climbing was hard, and it only served to highlight how badly out of shape I was, while my in-laws managed to cope so much better. Further, I hadn’t quite realized that the cave experience wouldn’t be the same as I had imagined, since the original cave was only opened at certain times a year, and that we only entered a newly created tunnel, one far easier to access, and hence more manageable with the crowds that thronged the mountain shrine. The resulting experience at the shrine, for barely a fraction of a second, hardly compared to what I had expected / imagined / heard about. So, for me, Vaishnodevi was like any other temple, nothing to write home about, something that was reflected (though not explicitly mentioned) in the blog post I wrote then.
On
this, the second day of Navaratri, let me take you to Nalasopara.
"What is there to see at Nalasopara?" you might be wondering. Isnt the place one of the farthest and most crowded
suburbs of Mumbai? Well, yes, that’s all it is, today, but Sopara has a history
which goes way, way beyond this island city of ours. It was once a busy port
city, known as Shurparaka. It was known to foreign traders from across the sea,
and has been mentioned in ancient texts. It was also a major centre of Buddhist
activity during Ashoka’s reign, and Ashokan edicts recovered from the Stupa
here point to a rich and glorious history lying forgotten under the layers of
time.There is so much to write about Nalasopara, but this post isn’t about
them. Since it is Navaratri, I am sharing with you, some images of the Goddess
recovered from the pond at the Chakreshwar Mandir, Nalasopara.
She
is bunched with
a group of idols recovered from the lake, and simply called a Yogini. She
resembles Ambika, holding a child in one arm, a lotus flower in another, and
seated on a lion. But, she could also be Skandamata. Whatever her name, she is
an impressive figure.
Even
more beautiful
is this one, holding a parrot in one hand. The only such figures I have seen
with parrots are from the South – Meenakshi and Andal. I have no idea who she
is, but she is so beautifully carved, I just couldn’t resist clicking more
photos of her!
Fixed
on a niche outside
one of the smaller shrines in the temple, is Mahishasura Mardini, the only
figure I could easily identify in the lot. She is roughly carved, but so beautiful,
and the depiction is superb! Look closer, and you can see her dragging the
human form of the demon out of the buffalo, holding his hair in her hand. She is
ferocious, but divine at the same time, and she is one who has been invading my
thoughts ever since I returned!
Finally, last but not the least, here is
Parvati, standing behind the Shiva Lingam in the main sanctum. She is so
different from the other figures, demurely clad, with a rosary in one hand, and a kamandalu in the other. She
could easily be a saint, or the wife of one. Or, she may just be from a
different period than the others. Whatever the reason, she stands apart from
the rest, alone occupying a niche inside the sanctum. She made me reflect on
the ideas and thoughts which go behind the making of an idol, of what makes
them divine.
These
are just four
of the many sculptures we saw at Nalasopara, sort of like a teaser to the post
on the ancient city, which I have yet to write! Incidentally, while reading up
about Nalasopara, I learnt that Parasurama is believed to have installed the 64
Yoginis in this city. There is no sign of these shrines today, and it has been
difficult to even get information. However, considering that we saw so many
forms of the goddess in just this temple, I wonder how many are hidden under
ponds, yet to be discovered, or lying unseen under layers of kumkum and
sindoor, worshipped in some wayside shrine. For now, I leave you with these,
and invite your comments.
Beautiful devis - I have lived in Bombay for so long and never even heard of this!
ReplyDeleteFew people have, Charu. My post on Nalasopara is still in the drafts... there is so much to write about that I am not yet satisfied
DeleteI had no clue about this at all.. thank you for sharing all the info and lovely pictures. .
ReplyDeleteAnd I marvel at the talent of the ones who made the idols.. Beautiful. .
Too few people know about Nalasopara, Bikram. And yet there is so much history there. and yes, its the talent of the sculptors which is so amazing...
Delete