Skip to main content

Featured Post

The Elephanta Caves

The Elephanta Caves , located on Elephanta Island, or Gharapuri, about 11 Km off the coast of the Gateway of India, Mumbai, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A visit to these caves, excavated probably in the 6 th century CE, is awe-inspiring, and also thought-provoking. Over the years, I have visited the caves a number of times, and also attended a number of talks by experts in the fields of art, history and archaeology on the caves. Together, they help me understand these caves, their art, and the people they were created for, just a little bit better. Every new visit, every new talk, every new article I read about the caves, fleshes out the image of what the island and the caves would have been like, at their peak. I last wrote about the caves on this blog, in 2011, almost exactly 11 years ago. Since then, my understanding of the caves has, I would like to think, marginally improved. Hence this attempt to write a new and updated post, trying to bring to life, the caves of Elephan

Ladakh Diaries Part 7: Pangong Lake

Pangong Tso, or Pangong Lake, situated at an elevation of about 4,300m (around 14,000ft), is the highest saltwater lake in the world. It is 134km long and covers an area of over 600 square metres. Only 40% of the lake lies within Ladakh. The rest is controlled by China. The lake is a picturesque sight, and is one of the most popular destinations in Ladakh.

We set off from Leh at 9 AM, eager to be on the road once again. Passing the 17th century Chemrey monastery along the way, I realized just how little of Ladakh we were actually seeing on this trip.

We crossed the pass at Chang La (~17,000ft) and saw a different facet of Ladakh. The mountains were the constant, but now rivers and sandy beds alternated every now and then with muddy areas and lush green patches of vegetation.

Spots of colour were added by wildflowers, yet another difference on this route.

We spotted a number of yaks and horses grazing along the road, and were told that while the yaks belonged to herders, the horses once belonged to the army, and were now retired, and had been let out to pasture. The horses indeed seemed to have gone wild, with long manes and unruly tails, happily grazing in the lush greenery, barely lifting their head as cars whizzed by.

Somewhere along the route, we entered the Changthang Wildlife sanctuary, home to, among other animals, the Kiang (Tibetan wild ass) and the Himalayan Marmot. The sanctuary is also home to a number of migratory birds. The sanctuary deserves a trip by itself, and I made a mental note to remember this, if I ever managed to visit Ladakh again!

The wildflowers and pastures soon gave way to sand. At one place, sand was blowing around in the wind, like a small dust storm. We hadn’t seen anything like this even among the sand dunes of Nubra!

After such a varied landscape, the Pangong lake was still a surprise, the beautiful shade of blue peeking between the mountains.

The road took us along the lake for quite a distance before we reached the campsite. It was around 2 PM when we reached, and, we couldn’t wait to stow our luggage in the tent and head towards the lake.

The campsite stretched across the banks of the lake, and I shuddered to think of the crowds that would gather. Thankfully, there weren’t too many people around when we  visited, and we were able to enjoy our solitude.

It was like staying on a beach camp, with more pebbles than sand! We spent most of our time either walking along the water line, or sitting on one of the rocks with our feet in the water. Small waves washed our feet, and even in summer, it was cold! The water was cold, and the temperature was far lower than what we had experienced through the entire trip. This was the only place my winter wear felt inadequate.

Through the afternoon, we enjoyed the sight of the water, admiring the colours. As the sun began to set, we watched the light move across the mountains, and wondered what it would look like, from the other side of the lake, which is off-limits. 

By the time it got dark, I was cold and decided to head back to the tent for some warmth, and to update my diary. Shankar stayed out far longer, and sometime late in the night, was lucky enough to spot shooting stars! I haven’t yet forgiven him for not waking me up!

We woke up early in the morning to watch the sun rise. This was the one time I wished I had a better camera, and better photography skills. Still, I managed as best as I could… take a look at what it looked like…

We left soon after breakfast to make our way back to Leh. We were leaving the next day and had to settle our accounts.

We had spent around 30 hours at Pangong, most of which was spent simply staring at the lake and the mountains. Never before have I sat still for so long, simply watching the water and the mountains with nothing to distract me – no birds, no crustaceans, no people. Even today, the memories of that time are so strong. I can simply close my eyes and be transported back there. I just find myself wishing that could really happen, and that I could go back, and enjoy it all over again!

On our way back, we managed to spot the Himalayan Marmots – rodent-like creatures which are endemic to the region. The animals have obviously learnt that tourists are excellent sources of food, and turn up to beg for food.

We had thought that this would be the end of the adventures on this trip, but how wrong we were. We were about 40 km from Leh, passing by a monastery, when we were hailed by an old man standing on the side of the road, asking for a lift. By now, we had gotten used to this, and having a big car with the just the two of us travelling, we had offered lifts to many people, and had a lot of interesting conversations too. Thus, we were happy to offer the old man a lift. What a surprise it was to us, that he turned out to be a Padmashri awardee, for his social work. Mr. Tashi Tundop had received the award back in 2014, and at 82 years of age, was still active. It was inspiring to meet someone like him, working even at this age, for the improvement of the community. 


  1. Amazing article. Your blog helped me to append myself in many ways thanks for sharing this nice of wonderful informative blogs in enliven.

  2. Great piece. Luckily stumbled across this article. Will read all your parts..planning to visit Ladakh this month. Can't ask for a more informative piece. Thanks a lot .Kannan


Post a Comment

Thanks so much for stopping by. Please leave a comment for me so that I will know you have been here....

Popular posts from this blog

The Havelis of Bikaner - A Photo Post

The lanes are narrow , twisting and turning amidst buildings old and new. Crumbling old structures with intricate workmanship stand side by side with art deco buildings, and more modern constructions, which follow no particular style. Autos, bicycles, motorcycles and vans rush past, blowing their horns as loudly as possible, while cows saunter past peacefully, completely unaffected by the noise. In the midst of all this chaos, children play by the side, and women go about their chores, as we explore these by-lanes of Bikaner, and its beautiful Havelis. Facade of one of the Rampuria Havelis

Ladakh - Planning The Trip

Over 2000 Km by road, in around 10 days. Stunning landscapes, wonderful people. That sums up our Ladakh trip. But how did it actually work? How did we make it happen? Read on to find out!  Leh, the capital of Ladakh , is accessible by air and road. Flying into Leh is the easiest, and time-saving option, while the road is the time consuming one, but with the added advantage of driving past some of the most beautiful landscapes in our country. Each option has much to recommend it, and we chose the road for just one reason – altitude sickness. Altitude sickness was one of my biggest concerns, since I suffer from motion-sickness. Yes, I do travel a lot, but that is despite my condition, and, over the years, have learnt how to handle it. I struggled with it when we visited Nathu-La in Sikkim, and wondered if I would be able to manage a week at the even higher altitudes that we would encounter in Ladakh. This was the reason we stuck to a basic plan, of only 9 days in Ladakh, though we

Bhedaghat - Home of the 81 Yoginis

The Narmada flows down the mountains , carving out a path for herself as she makes her way down to the plains of Central India. She cascades from the rocks, her fine spray making it appear as if billows of smoke (dhuan) arise from the flowing streams of water (dhaar), giving it the name Dhuandhar. Dhuandhar Falls The force of her flow creates a gorge , smoothening and carving out the rocks into fantastic shapes, the pure white of the rocks standing starkly against the shades of the water. It is a joy to cruise down the river in a boat, seeing the natural contours created by the river, now famous as the Marble Rocks. We are at Bhedaghat, located on the banks of the Narmada near Jabalpur, where thousands of visitors turn up to see these natural landscapes, creations of the sacred Narmada, and pay obeisance to her. However, to me, the most interesting thing about Bhedaghat, isn’t the falls or the rocks, or even the river. What makes Bhedaghat special is t