Skip to main content

Featured Post

Ladakh Diaries Part 9: Lamayuru

Lamayuru is one of the most ancient monasteries in Ladakh, the oldest surviving structure dating to the 11 th century CE. What makes this monastery particularly fascinating, is its location, amidst what is today called the “moonscape”, for the spectacular natural rock formations, which truly are “out of the world”! As per legend , there once existed a huge lake in this area, populated only by the Nagas (serpents). It was prophesized that there would be a great monastery built here. This prophecy came true when the great acharya Naropa (756-1041 CE) arrived. He emptied the lake, meditated for many years inside a cave, and built the first monastery here. The present structure is a new one, built around the cave where Acharya Naropa is said to have meditated. This legend seems to fit well with the geological formations seen in the area, which suggest this was a paleo-lake, which disappeared around 1000 years ago. Lamayuru is about 130 km from Leh , and the Indus River flows along th

Ladakh Diaries Part 7: Pangong Lake

Pangong Tso, or Pangong Lake, situated at an elevation of about 4,300m (around 14,000ft), is the highest saltwater lake in the world. It is 134km long and covers an area of over 600 square metres. Only 40% of the lake lies within Ladakh. The rest is controlled by China. The lake is a picturesque sight, and is one of the most popular destinations in Ladakh.

We set off from Leh at 9 AM, eager to be on the road once again. Passing the 17th century Chemrey monastery along the way, I realized just how little of Ladakh we were actually seeing on this trip.

We crossed the pass at Chang La (~17,000ft) and saw a different facet of Ladakh. The mountains were the constant, but now rivers and sandy beds alternated every now and then with muddy areas and lush green patches of vegetation.

Spots of colour were added by wildflowers, yet another difference on this route.

We spotted a number of yaks and horses grazing along the road, and were told that while the yaks belonged to herders, the horses once belonged to the army, and were now retired, and had been let out to pasture. The horses indeed seemed to have gone wild, with long manes and unruly tails, happily grazing in the lush greenery, barely lifting their head as cars whizzed by.

Somewhere along the route, we entered the Changthang Wildlife sanctuary, home to, among other animals, the Kiang (Tibetan wild ass) and the Himalayan Marmot. The sanctuary is also home to a number of migratory birds. The sanctuary deserves a trip by itself, and I made a mental note to remember this, if I ever managed to visit Ladakh again!

The wildflowers and pastures soon gave way to sand. At one place, sand was blowing around in the wind, like a small dust storm. We hadn’t seen anything like this even among the sand dunes of Nubra!

After such a varied landscape, the Pangong lake was still a surprise, the beautiful shade of blue peeking between the mountains.

The road took us along the lake for quite a distance before we reached the campsite. It was around 2 PM when we reached, and, we couldn’t wait to stow our luggage in the tent and head towards the lake.

The campsite stretched across the banks of the lake, and I shuddered to think of the crowds that would gather. Thankfully, there weren’t too many people around when we  visited, and we were able to enjoy our solitude.

It was like staying on a beach camp, with more pebbles than sand! We spent most of our time either walking along the water line, or sitting on one of the rocks with our feet in the water. Small waves washed our feet, and even in summer, it was cold! The water was cold, and the temperature was far lower than what we had experienced through the entire trip. This was the only place my winter wear felt inadequate.

Through the afternoon, we enjoyed the sight of the water, admiring the colours. As the sun began to set, we watched the light move across the mountains, and wondered what it would look like, from the other side of the lake, which is off-limits. 

By the time it got dark, I was cold and decided to head back to the tent for some warmth, and to update my diary. Shankar stayed out far longer, and sometime late in the night, was lucky enough to spot shooting stars! I haven’t yet forgiven him for not waking me up!

We woke up early in the morning to watch the sun rise. This was the one time I wished I had a better camera, and better photography skills. Still, I managed as best as I could… take a look at what it looked like…

We left soon after breakfast to make our way back to Leh. We were leaving the next day and had to settle our accounts.

We had spent around 30 hours at Pangong, most of which was spent simply staring at the lake and the mountains. Never before have I sat still for so long, simply watching the water and the mountains with nothing to distract me – no birds, no crustaceans, no people. Even today, the memories of that time are so strong. I can simply close my eyes and be transported back there. I just find myself wishing that could really happen, and that I could go back, and enjoy it all over again!

On our way back, we managed to spot the Himalayan Marmots – rodent-like creatures which are endemic to the region. The animals have obviously learnt that tourists are excellent sources of food, and turn up to beg for food.

We had thought that this would be the end of the adventures on this trip, but how wrong we were. We were about 40 km from Leh, passing by a monastery, when we were hailed by an old man standing on the side of the road, asking for a lift. By now, we had gotten used to this, and having a big car with the just the two of us travelling, we had offered lifts to many people, and had a lot of interesting conversations too. Thus, we were happy to offer the old man a lift. What a surprise it was to us, that he turned out to be a Padmashri awardee, for his social work. Mr. Tashi Tundop had received the award back in 2014, and at 82 years of age, was still active. It was inspiring to meet someone like him, working even at this age, for the improvement of the community. 


Popular posts from this blog

The Havelis of Bikaner - A Photo Post

The lanes are narrow , twisting and turning amidst buildings old and new. Crumbling old structures with intricate workmanship stand side by side with art deco buildings, and more modern constructions, which follow no particular style. Autos, bicycles, motorcycles and vans rush past, blowing their horns as loudly as possible, while cows saunter past peacefully, completely unaffected by the noise. In the midst of all this chaos, children play by the side, and women go about their chores, as we explore these by-lanes of Bikaner, and its beautiful Havelis. Facade of one of the Rampuria Havelis

Kabini Part 3 - After the Rains

Visiting Kabini in peak summer, we hadn’t bargained for the rains, which dominated our three days at the Lodge. While animal sightings were understandably lesser than usual, seeing the forest in the rain was an interesting experience in its own way. However, as we headed back into the forest for our second and third safaris, we hoped the rains would let up, and allow us to see more animals! Winding jungle paths

Kabini Part 2 - A Boat Ride

The river Kabini is the heart of the Nagarhole National park, and a boat ride on the river is an integral part of the stay at the Kabini River Lodge. The incessant, unseasonal rainfall had marked our stay so far, and heading to the jetty for our boat ride on our second evening at the lodge, we kept our fingers crossed, hoping for clear skies.  The Jetty... at the Kabini River Lodge