Temples of Kashi - The Kardameshwar temple

The absence of ancient Hindu structures in Kashi is something I have always lamented about. The shrines are certainly ancient, and that is something that has always attracted me to the city. However, I miss the beauty of the ancient structures that we see at other sites. This feeling is intensified when I see marble and concrete and tiles in temples that once would have been beautifully adorned with evocative sculptures, and worn by the passage of time, touched by the hands of seekers who came before.

This time, this desire to see some remnants of an ancient Hindu structure in Kashi came true when I managed to visit the Kardameshwar Temple.

The Kardameshwar temple is not one of the main temples in the city. It is part of the temples on the Pancha Kroshi yatra, a pilgrimage which takes one on a circumambulatory tour of the whole city. The temple is located on the outskirts of the city, on the western bank of a tank called the Kardama Kund.

The Kardameshwar temple is one of the few ancient structures still standing in Kashi. It has been estimated that the original temple dates back to the 11^th or 12^th centuries, from the sculptures and the base of the existing structure. However, it was evidently renovated at some point, probably in the 18^th century, when the tank was constructed by a queen from Bengal.

The temple’s beauty lies in its location, as well as its sculptures. Situated right next to the tank, the temple entrance facing the tank, it is a beautiful and peaceful place, one where we can focus on the divinity both inside and outside the temple. For me, however, the prime attraction were the sculptures, since I had so far seen so very few such beautiful ones in Kashi. I will let the photos speak for themselves now, rather than use my words….. Please do forgive me for the bad quality of the photos. It was pouring heavily during my visit, and this was all I could manage.

There are plenty of images of the different forms of Shiva,

This is one marked as Kardameshwar, but he seems more a form of Nataraja…

There is Andhakantaka, as the one who killed the demon Andhakasura…

There is Uma Maheshwara, seen in a close embrace with Uma or Parvati…

And there is one showing Shiva in meditation, a very interesting one which I think is Sadashiva, since there is a hint of two more faces on either side of the main one. Seeing this form of Shiva here makes me wonder if this temple had any connection to the Pasupata cult.

There are also images of forms of Vishnu..

Vishnu with all his attributes and attendants, with a garuda below (probably added later? )…

Another Vishnu which I hoped I could have gotten a better look at. He doesn’t look like the usual figures of Vishnu, though he holds all the attributes…

And then there is Balarama… he has the hooded snake above him and holds a plough…and stands with his consort Revathi

And there is Vamana as well …

There is a gorgeous Ardhanareeshwara,

And also a Brahma…

And some Nagas, some with their consorts and some alone….

And a couple of Mahishasuramardinis.. one inside, rather badly damaged, and one outside…

The entrance to the main sanctum is flanked by Ganga and Yamuna, though they are damaged. 

Opposite the temple stands a lone sculpture of Surya, identifiable only by the twin lotuses he holds…

There are other random sculptures lying around, but thanks to the heavy rain, I wasn’t able to pay much attention to them. Since returning, I have also read that there are other structures nearby connected to the temple and the tank, but for now, I am happy to have visited this temple and seen these sculptures.

My visit to the Kardameshwar temple will always remain a fond memory of my Kashi visit. Not only did I get to indulge in beautiful ancient sculptures and iconography, I also got to enjoy the natural beauty of the site. As I mentioned earlier, the temple is right next to the tank, and it was tempting to walk down to the water, and I would have, had it not been for the rain and the slippery stones. Instead, I simply enjoyed the peace and quiet, and committed every aspect of this beautiful temple to memory.

For a more detailed post about the temple, as well as the Pancha kroshi yatra, visit Kevin’s blog.