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Odisha Part 11: Discovering the Jaina Heritage of Odisha at the caves of Udaygiri and Khandgiri

The Hindu and Buddhist history of Odisha , or rather, ancient Kalinga, is rather well known to everyone. Who hasn’t heard of the grand temples of Odisha – Puri, Lingaraj and Konark, or the great war of Kalinga which inspired Ashoka to convert to Buddhism? In contrast, very few know of the Jaina heritage of this region. This is quite a pity, since, just around 7 km from the city, is one of India’s most ancient inscriptions, which throws light on the Jaina heritage of Odisha. This inscription is the Hathigumpha inscription of Kharavela, in the hills of Udaygiri. Udaygiri and Khandgiri are two hills located opposite each other, and both are testaments to the rich Jaina heritage of Odisha. The caves at Udaygiri are older, while Khandgiri is relatively newer, but has lasted much longer, and continues to be a place of pilgrimage for Jains even today. These hills, from inscriptions and excavations of caves, shrines and rock beds, appear to have been a haven for Jaina monks, right from the ...
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Ganesha on a Govardhan

Today is Ganesh Chaturthi, and with everyone writing about Ganesha in some way or the other, I thought I should do a post too, but related to something I saw on my recent visit to Jaisalmer. Are you now confused? And wondering what connection Ganesha has to Govardhan and that too, Jaisalmer? Well, then, first, let me show you what I am talking about….




And now that you have seen it, let me draw your attention to the ‘a’ in the title. I am not talking about ‘The Govardhan Mountain’ but ‘a Govardhan’, and therein lies the difference! This Govardhan is a stone, a sort of marker, identifying a spot – usually water, in the desert. These markers were extensively used by the Paliwal community in Jaisalmer, to identify special sites. It could be the presence of water, or mark a tunnel, or a site for a temple. These stones were usually aligned with the directions of the compass, and had the figures of deities inscribed on them, usually, Ganesha, Vishnu, Hanuman, and another figure, which could be Rama or Krishna.  Here are some other views of the same Govardhan I showed you before…

Its certainly Vishnu on the left. Am not sure of the one on the right


This pair looks like Rama and Hanuman. What do you think?



An interesting tidbit, wouldn’t you agree? Thanks to the folks at Suryagarh for pointing them out and telling me about them! 

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