My first trip to Vaishnodevi was unimpressive. Climbing was hard, and it only served to highlight how badly out of shape I was, while my in-laws managed to cope so much better. Further, I hadn’t quite realized that the cave experience wouldn’t be the same as I had imagined, since the original cave was only opened at certain times a year, and that we only entered a newly created tunnel, one far easier to access, and hence more manageable with the crowds that thronged the mountain shrine. The resulting experience at the shrine, for barely a fraction of a second, hardly compared to what I had expected / imagined / heard about. So, for me, Vaishnodevi was like any other temple, nothing to write home about, something that was reflected (though not explicitly mentioned) in the blog post I wrote then.
A
busload of tourists filled the church. While few knelt to pray, most just sat and looked
around, and almost everyone clicked photos from their camera/phone.
The voluble
guide stood as close as possible to the altar, and as he spoke, his followers
hung on to his every word, clicking enthusiastically at whatever he pointed. I
smiled, rather irreverently reminded of the faithful flock following the
messiah, as the guide led them to a corner of the church, and they elbowed each
other, trying to get a better view. I wandered around the church as the group
finished seeing all there was to see, and only then made my way to see the one
slab of stone that had brought so many people (including us) all the way to
this corner of Kerala….
The
stone is now
weathered and the writing is no longer legible. Besides, the spot it marks no
longer holds the remains which were once interred here. And yet, this stone is
one of the biggest attractions of Fort Kochi. After all, it marks the place
where Vasco Da Gama was laid to rest!
Vasco
Da Gama was on
his third visit to India, when he contracted malaria, and passed away on
Christmas Eve, 1524. He was interred in this church, and here he rested in
peace for 16 years, before his remains were shipped to Portugal in 1539.
The
St. Francis Church, as it is known today, is most popular for its connection to Vasco Da
Gama, the one who showed Europe the sea route to India, and changed history
forever. However, its main claim to fame is as the first church built by
Europeans in India. Yes, there were churches built here before this. St. Thomas
the Apostle had arrived in Cranganore centuries before, and there were already
Christians here when the Portuguese missionaries arrived. However, the
Portuguese brought with them a more modern (read European) version of
Christianity, in keeping with the times, which were well at variance with the
religion followed by the Christians here. Due credit must therefore be given to
the ruler of Cochin, who not only welcomed the Portuguese, but also allowed
them to build their own churches here. I can only admire the extent of true
secularity followed by our rulers then! Of course, they weren’t without their
share of troubles, but this post is about the church, not religious issues!
Coming
back to the Church, it was first built of wood in 1503, and dedicated to the Saint
Bartholomew. A permanent structure with bricks and mortar was built by the
Franciscans in 1516, and the church dedicated to Saint Anthony. In 1663, the
Dutch captured Cochin, and converted it to a Protestant church, relieving it of
most of its treasures. Over a century later, it passed into the hands of the
Anglicans with the arrival of the British, finally settling down to be known as
the St. Francis Church.
The
present structure
dates back to the times of the Dutch, since a tablet over the west door
mentions a renovation in 1779. However, the interior is almost completely from
British times, and the ‘pankhas’ or fans, erected over the pews show us a
glimpse of the opulence of that era.
All
over the walls
are memorial stones, which have been transplanted from their original locations
in and around the church at various times.
 |
| A collage of some of the memorial stones |
These
are an interesting recording of history, ranging from Portuguese to Dutch names and family
coats of arms, which I found rather fascinating.
 |
| A collage of some of the coats of arms on the memorial stones |
Interestingly, the church records go back to
1795, to the arrival of the British. A little farther off is the Dutch
cemetery, which is also maintained by the church. There are over a hundred
tombs here, of both, the Dutch as well as British. Entry is restricted, since
the cemetery is mostly kept locked. However, it provides quite an interesting
rendering of the Dutch and British history of the region.
Outside the church is one of the more
recent memorials – a cenotaph erected in 1920 in memory of the residents of Cochin
who lost their lives in the First World War.
From
the Portuguese reign to the Dutch Invasion, from the East India Company to British rule, WWI
and Independence, St.Francis Church has
seen it all over the centuries. It is apt indeed that the memory of Vasco Da
Gama lingers on, in this, the oldest of churches, in the land he opened up to
the world, and changed the course of history!
Information:
- The church is located just off the beach road, and is within walking distance from the beach.
- Services are held in the church only on Sundays, and entry is restricted at that time. It is open to visitors on all weekdays.
- The Dutch Cemetery is within walking distance of the church. Please ensure that you take permission from the church office if you want to enter the cemetery.
- Visit the Church’s website for all other details.
Related Posts:
- Part 1: First Impressions
- Part 2: Chinese Fishing Nets
- Part 3: Indo – Portuguese Museum
- Part 5: Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica
- Part 6: Mattanchery Palace
- Part 7: Jew Town and Synagogue
- Part 8 : A Boat Ride
- Part 9: 3 Cafés, Three experiences
- Part 10: Maritime Museum
Nice article on this church steeped in history.
ReplyDeleteThank you, Niranjan!
DeleteYou're right, Anuradha. Vasco Da Gama literally changed the course of history by reaching India. Great post.
ReplyDelete