Skip to main content

Featured Post

The Vaishnodevi Experience 2023

My first trip to Vaishnodevi was unimpressive. Climbing was hard, and it only served to highlight how badly out of shape I was, while my in-laws managed to cope so much better. Further, I hadn’t quite realized that the cave experience wouldn’t be the same as I had imagined, since the original cave was only opened at certain times a year, and that we only entered a newly created tunnel, one far easier to access, and hence more manageable with the crowds that thronged the mountain shrine. The resulting experience at the shrine, for barely a fraction of a second, hardly compared to what I had expected / imagined / heard about. So, for me, Vaishnodevi was like any other temple, nothing to write home about, something that was reflected (though not explicitly mentioned) in the blog post I wrote then.

Indian Museum, Kolkata

When I first announced my intention of going to Kolkata, Sudha said, “Whatever you do, don’t miss the Indian Museum!” I must confess that, till then, I hadn’t heard of the Indian Museum. I knew there were many museums in Kolkata, and I had every intention of seeing as many as I could, but why specifically the Indian Museum? “Because it was the first museum in India” she replied, “and this is the museum where all discoveries from various excavations were first brought, and later on, given to other museums.” That settled it. I didn’t need any more reasons to be convinced. 

When I reached Kolkata, the museum was one of the first places I asked about. “Jaadughar? Oh, it’s nearby. But why don’t you go to Victoria Memorial or Science City?” was the reaction I got. It took me a while to realize that the museum was locally known as ‘Jaadughar’, literally ‘house of magic’! Why? I have no idea!  Eventually, learning that the museum was just a stone’s throw away from where we stayed, we headed there the first thing in the morning, after a sumptuous breakfast on Park Street…. And found ourselves to be the first visitors of the day, and the gates yet to open!

That turned out to be a blessing, for we managed to have the museum to ourselves for a while, before the busloads of tourists came in. The sculpture galleries were our first stop, and we spent quite some time immersed in sculptures from across the country, from the 2nd to the 12th centuries AD….I have already written about the smiling head of the Bodhisattva who charmed us here, and can go on and on about the sculptures, but let me restrict myself to just a couple, to highlight the variety exhibited here. This amorous couple looks different from those we have seen, don’t they? They are from Sankisa in Uttar Pradesh, and date back to the 2nd century AD…

The sculptures from Amaravati in Andhra Pradesh were remarkable for their intricate work. Like this panel, depicting events from the life of the Buddha.

And then, there were sculptures from West Bengal, the fine details in black stone reminding me of some of the work from our South Indian temples… like this Garuda, and in the background, Vishnu.

The Egyptian Gallery was one of the most popular ones, thanks to the Mummy preserved here!

Unfortunately, the Geology section was under renovation, so we couldn't take a look, but the fossil sections had us enthralled, especially Samhith! The sight of the massive elephants (no, they apparently aren't mammoths, just big elephants. We asked.) had him enraptured, once the placards assured him that they were indeed, real!

The Shivalik Gallery, dedicated to fossils found in the Shivalik Ranges, was even more fascinating, in spite of the massive crowds which had gathered by the time we arrived there.

The Botany Section is one of the most extensive sections here, with samples, and details of a huge variety of plants. From old herbariums to models of plant based industries, such as the Jute industry, this section by itself requires hours to do justice to it!

The museum was especially well maintained, with boards, maps, and facilities for visitors, including wheel chairs for those who need them.

Sadly, we also saw signs of indifference and negligence, such as this….

The skeleton of the now extinct Hook-Lipped Rhinoceros, with a T-shirt draped over its head! I didn’t remove it myself, since we aren’t supposed to touch exhibits, but I did bring it to the notice of the staff, who simply smiled, and said they couldn’t always see what the visitors did. While I do understand their predicament, it is sad to see this state of affairs, especially in an otherwise well maintained museum.

Another slight was in the Bronze Gallery, where I spotted this beautiful work depicting Kannappa Nayanar, a Shaivite Saint from South India.

There was, unfortunately no board or explanatory placard, and placed as it was, next to a replica of a temple from Japan, visitors naturally assumed it was from Japan too! The museum staff, when I pointed this out, simply shrugged, saying that the board must have been taken off for some reason! Again, in such a well maintained museum, where the sculpture gallery had such detailed boards, this is rather sad.

The Museum’s age is also a huge factor in its importance. Now in its 201st year, it has been the hub in the heritage mapping of not just India, but the Indian Sub-continent, and to a great extent, South East Asia too. It houses an enviable collection of artifacts, notably the fossils, which, I don’t think exist anywhere else! There is also a library, which you need permission to enter, but which is promising, for anyone interested in detailed studies. The only thing they need to do something about is the handling of the crowds! But then again, crowd control is not something we are good at, are we?

  • The Museum’s website has extensive details about the museum, and all the information for visitors, including maps and a virtual tour.

In a nutshell, here is what you need to know:
  • Location: The Museum is located just off Park Street, within walking distance of the Metro Station. Ask anyone for Jadughar, and you will find it.
  • Timings: In summer, the museum is open from 10AM to 5 PM, and in winter from 10AM to 4:30 PM.
  • The museum is closed on Mondays and Public Holidays.
  • Go early to avoid the rush. The first couple of hours as soon as the museum opens are the best. Start with the Shivalik Gallery on the ground floor, as it draws the most crowds later.

  • While you are the museum, please remember to maintain silence, or at least talk softly. Loud conversations and laughter are terribly distracting for those genuinely interested in the exhibits.
  • Please do not touch the exhibits, however enticing they might be. I cannot reiterate this enough!
  • Please use the many dustbins provided for getting rid of rubbish. The museum is not meant to be a garbage bin.
  • Finally, the exhibits aren’t clotheshorses! If you want to take off your T-shirt, you can do it elsewhere! 


  1. The central garden was fully dug up when we visited one month before you... Good to see it completed quickly

  2. Dear Anuradha ji, I am a scholar of music and writing a book on music of ancient India. While searching images on google in this regard I saw a picture of Amaravati Sculptures. And after further search I found the picture has been clicked by you and is part of this blog. If you permit me to use this picture I would be very grateful to you. I will give credits for this picture to you in my book. Kindly reply me at my email - Mallika Banerjee


Post a Comment

Thanks so much for stopping by. Please leave a comment for me so that I will know you have been here....

Popular posts from this blog

Gokarna Part II – The Five Lingams

We continued our Gokarna trip by visiting four other Shiva temples in the vicinity, all connected to the same story of Gokarna. The story of Gokarna mentions the Mahabaleshwara Lingam as the one brought from Kailas by Ravana, and kept at this place on the ground by Ganesha. (See my earlier post- Gokarna – Pilgrimage and Pleasure). However, the story does not end here. It is believed that, in his anger, Ravana flung aside the materials which covered the lingam- the casket, its lid, the string around the lingam, and the cloth covering it. All these items became lingams as soon as they touched the ground. These four lingams, along with the main Mahabaleshwara lingam are collectively called the ‘ Panchalingams’ . These are: Mahabaleshwara – the main lingam Sajjeshwar – the casket carrying the lingam. This temple is about 35 Kms from Karwar, and is a 2 hour drive from Gokarna. Dhareshwar – the string covering the lingam. This temple is on NH17, about 45 Kms south of Gokarna. Gunavanteshw

The Havelis of Bikaner - A Photo Post

The lanes are narrow , twisting and turning amidst buildings old and new. Crumbling old structures with intricate workmanship stand side by side with art deco buildings, and more modern constructions, which follow no particular style. Autos, bicycles, motorcycles and vans rush past, blowing their horns as loudly as possible, while cows saunter past peacefully, completely unaffected by the noise. In the midst of all this chaos, children play by the side, and women go about their chores, as we explore these by-lanes of Bikaner, and its beautiful Havelis. Facade of one of the Rampuria Havelis

The Power of 8 - The Ashta Dikpalas and Ashta Vasus at Khajuraho

The four cardinal directions form the axis on which a temple is built, and are thus the basis of temple architecture. Leading from them are the eight directions, which are believed to be guarded by the eight guardians, or Ashta Dikpalas . In the temples of Khajuraho, great care has been taken by the sculptors to carve the Ashta Dikpalas on the walls, both inside and outside. They not only guard the temple, but also look over us as we circumambulate the shrine, protecting us by their presence. They are augmented by the Ashta Vasus , celestial beings which represent natural phenomena. Together, they enhance the idea of the temple as cosmos, enfolding within it, all the aspects of nature, both, on earth, as well in space.