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Odisha Part 6: The Yogini Temple of Hirapur

I fell in love with this temple the first time I set eyes on it. Back in 2017 , I had been excited to see yet another Yogini temple, when I visited Puri. The resort I was staying at (and writing for), had arranged for a car and driver to take me around. The driver was happy to take me to most of the places I wanted to go, but when it came to Hirapur, he was appalled. He knew of the temple, but had never been there. It was a tantric temple, one not visited by women, and certainly not women travelling alone. He tried to convince me not to go, but my stubbornness and persistence paid off, and he reluctantly agreed when I told him that if he didn’t take me, I would find another driver who would. All along the way, he kept going on about the sinister things that happened at the temple, the tantric rituals that were performed at night…. An Odisha brahmin who took his religious duties very seriously, to the extent of stopping the car to perform the sandhyavandam when he deemed it time, he...
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Do-Drul Chorten, Gangtok

It was evening, and the light was fading as we arrived at the Do-Drul Chorten (also sometimes spelled as Duddul Choedten) in Gangtok. Samhith was tired, and all he wanted was to get back to the resort, and to his games with his friends. Leaving him behind in the car, we walked up the short path to the Stupa, which was so recognizable from the photos we had seen.




A board at the entrance told us an interesting story… of the place being haunted by spirits. Apparently, the spirits caught hold of anyone who came here. Eventually, a Lama from Tibet came here, subdued the spirits and set up a monastery. His successor later built the Stupa to keep the spirits away even after the demise of the Lama.  It reminded me of the scores of temples built to ward away evil spirits!



As we walked around, I was astounded by the sight of these rows and rows of lamps lit inside an enclosure…



The lamps reminded me of temples, and I wanted to light one too. There was no board, no information, and no one I could ask, though the place was full of monks. They were busy with their evening meals, which were being served. We approached one of them, and he gestured to us to take a plate. We did, and shared it between ourselves. Then, reverting back to our question, started looking around for someone who could help us out. Language seemed to be a major barrier, but eventually, we found a visitor who was happy to help us.




She had come from Bhutan, on a pilgrimage, one she made every year. The lamps, she said, were lit in memory of ancestors, to show them the path in the world they were in. Could we light the lamps? Yes of course, but they had already been lit for the day. We would have to come again in the morning and arrange for one. That wasn’t possible, but the thought was a good one. As we walked back towards the car and Samhith, it wasn’t the evil spirits we thought of, but the souls which, somewhere were grateful for the light provided by the lamps! 


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Location: Gangtok, Sikkim, India

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