My first trip to Vaishnodevi was unimpressive. Climbing was hard, and it only served to highlight how badly out of shape I was, while my in-laws managed to cope so much better. Further, I hadn’t quite realized that the cave experience wouldn’t be the same as I had imagined, since the original cave was only opened at certain times a year, and that we only entered a newly created tunnel, one far easier to access, and hence more manageable with the crowds that thronged the mountain shrine. The resulting experience at the shrine, for barely a fraction of a second, hardly compared to what I had expected / imagined / heard about. So, for me, Vaishnodevi was like any other temple, nothing to write home about, something that was reflected (though not explicitly mentioned) in the blog post I wrote then.
Poring
over Google maps
to figure out the distance from Sankarankovil to Kovilpatti, the name
‘Kazhugumalai’ jumped out. The chance to visit this ancient site, on our way to
the station was too good to pass. And that is how we found ourselves rushing
over rickety roads,
headed to Kazhugumalai, our luggage rocking in the back of our auto!
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| Kazhugumalai, with the Murugan Temple in the foreground |
Kazhugumalai (also spelled as Kalugumalai) literally means, ‘mountain of the
vultures’. The rocky outcrop does seem to be the kind of place vultures would
be seen in, but we didn’t spot any. The stories of the place, however, relate
to a vulture from our myths – Sampati, brother of the famed Jatayu, from the
Ramayana. It is believed that after the Ramayana war, Sampati comes here to
pray for his brother, on the advice of Rama. Time passes, and Muruga, or
Subramanya arrives, on his way to slay the demon Surapadman and his brothers.
The old story, it seems, is being repeated, and it is now Sampati’s turn to aid
the gods. In return, Muruga blesses him, and gives him salvation. Since it was
here that a vulture attained salvation, the hill is known as Kazhugumalai. At
the foothills is a temple to Muruga, seen here with his peacock. The original
shrine, or the garbagriha, is a rock cut cave dating back to the Pandya
period. The structure however has been extended over the centuries, and the
resulting temple is a beautiful one with many interesting sculptures and
subsidiary shrines.
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| Kazhugumalai Murugan, flanked by Valli and Devayanai, with a saint sitting by his side, probably Arunagirinathar, who sang extensively of Him |
While
the Kazhugumalai Murugan Temple is the most popular among pilgrims, it is not
the most interesting structure here. The hill bears testimony to some amazing
sculptural talent, dating back to the 8th and 9th
centuries, that too belonging to both, Hindu as well as Jaina traditions!
These
rows and rows of Jaina figures are some of the most striking works of Kazhugumalai. I can only show
you a small portion, since the ASI official in charge was closing up, and
refused to allow me to proceed further. In any case, I might not have been able
to manage the steep climb which leads to other, more impressive Jaina figures,
located on the higher reaches of the hill.
Jaina
art seems to
have flourished here during the reign of Parantaka Nedunjadaiya Pandiyan (AD
768-800), according to epigraphic evidence from the sculptures and inscriptions.
The carvings have been made in the name of various donors, from carpenters and
labourers, to merchants. The loss of Pandya patronage seems to have driven the
Jaina Siddhas from the region, and thus put an end to the creation of this
remarkable art work on the hill.
On
the other hand,
is Vettuvan Kovil, on the same hill. The name literally means
“Sculptor’s temple”, and it is indeed a marvel of the sculptors’ art. Carved
out of a single rock, the similarity to Ellora’s Kailasanatha Temple is unmistakable,
and the temple is indeed called, the Ellora of the south.
This
beautiful temple
is believed to have been built between the 8th and 9th
centuries, during Pandya reign. It seems to point towards the transition of
royal patronage, from Jaina beliefs to Shaiva beliefs. Sadly, the temple
remained unfinished, for unknown reasons.
 |
| Uma Maheshwara |
However, even the portion that was
completed, and what remains of it, is impressive enough for us to spend hours
simply gazing at the variety of sculptures – mostly of Shiva, but also of
Vishnu and Brahma.
 |
| Dakshinamurthy |
 |
| Vishnu, seated at ease |
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| Brahma, seated on a lotus |
The sheer number of ganas depicted here, and the variety of
their postures, is another interesting aspect of this temple.
 |
| a profusion of Ganas |
And
the view from
the top is truly impressive. It was amazing to see how beautifully sculptors
had created this out of solid rock, centuries ago!
The
sun was setting as we left, and I couldn’t help thinking what a wonderful ending this was, to our
Tirunelveli Temple Run. We had visited so many ancient temples on our trip, yet
nothing encapsulated the concept of changing times better than this hillock. It
reminded us of the role patronage played in temple building, but above all, it
highlighted the deep interconnection between religion and politics, something
that is very apparent today. After all, as they say “The more things change,
the more they remain the same!”
Information:
- Location: Kazhugumalai is located midway between Sankarankovil and Kovilpatti, about 20 Km from each town.
- How to Reach: Kovilpatti is well connected by trains to different parts of the country. Buses are available from Kovilpatti to Kazhugumalai, however, you can also stay at Sankarankovil and combine a visit to Kazhugumalai with a number of other interesting temples in the region.
- Timings: The Kazhugumalai Murugan temple is open from 5:30 AM to 12:30 PM and again from 6 to 9 PM. Vettuvan Kovil as well as the Jaina sculptures can be seen anytime during the day, till 6 PM.
- Suggestions: It is best to visit Vettuvan Kovil as well as the Jaina sculptures during the day, or at least early in the evening. There is a very short, and easy climb involved for both, Vettuvan Kovil as well as the Jaina sculptures you see in this post. However, there are more sculptures higher up on the hill, which involve a slightly steeper climb. If you intend to visit all of them, plan accordingly, with plenty of time. Avoid afternoons, since it can get really hot.
This brings
me to the end
of my Tirunelveli Temple Run, and also, my Summertrip 2015 series. The series
has run longer than I had imagined, with 11 posts on the Temple Run, and around
45 posts in all. It has been a mammoth task,
and I am actually glad it is over! Especially since I am soon headed on another
trip… the last one of the year, my Winter Trip 2015!
Follow
me on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter, to see where I am now
headed to, and join me on my adventures.
Meanwhile,
here are quick links to all my posts in the Summertrip series
- The Southern Jaunt
- Our Tirunelveli Temple Run
- Part 1: Introduction and Nellaiappar Temple
- Part 2: Valliyoor, Thirukkurungudi, Kalakkad, Athalanallur
- Part 3: Thiruppudaimarudhur
- Part 4: Sorimuthu Ayyanar Kovil, Mannarkovil, Tenkasi, Kuttralam
- Part 5: Nava Tirupati
- Part 6: Tiruchendur
- Part 7: Nava Kailasam
- Part 8: Karungulam
- Part 9: Sankarankovil
- Part 10: Some Temples around Sankarankovil and thoughts on our disappearing heritage
Nicely written with lots of information and beautiful pictures
ReplyDeleteI love the series. Quite clueless about temples, your posts have taken me through and acquainted me with some of them beautifully. Thanks Anu!
ReplyDeleteAwesome and helpful article.
ReplyDeleteKnowing about the history and visiting ancient places was something that always attracted me since childhood. This is a great destination as per my interest. Thanks for sharing the extra information regarding the location and timing. It will be very helpful for me when I visit Kazhugumalai.
ReplyDeleteGreat post. Shared it on my site
ReplyDeletenice
ReplyDeleteYou have beautifully described your trip. I am always interested to about the history of ancient places and adventures. It is images of Sculptures are very attractive and every sculpture is a mirror of the past.The Kazhugumalaiis very intersting place to visit.
ReplyDeleteSuch beautiful carvings ib the middle of nowhere. .. Thanx for bringing it to our notice...
ReplyDeleteStunning Photos..
ReplyDeleteThis is one of the most impressive post i saw today
ReplyDeleteVery informative!
ReplyDeleteLove this Temple!! It is simply an epitome of spirituality !!
ReplyDeleteAwesome article! The pictures are absolutely amazing! Makes me marvel about the rich heritage of India and stunning architecture of the ancient times.
ReplyDelete