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Ladakh Diaries Part 9: Lamayuru

Lamayuru is one of the most ancient monasteries in Ladakh, the oldest surviving structure dating to the 11 th century CE. What makes this monastery particularly fascinating, is its location, amidst what is today called the “moonscape”, for the spectacular natural rock formations, which truly are “out of the world”! As per legend , there once existed a huge lake in this area, populated only by the Nagas (serpents). It was prophesized that there would be a great monastery built here. This prophecy came true when the great acharya Naropa (756-1041 CE) arrived. He emptied the lake, meditated for many years inside a cave, and built the first monastery here. The present structure is a new one, built around the cave where Acharya Naropa is said to have meditated. This legend seems to fit well with the geological formations seen in the area, which suggest this was a paleo-lake, which disappeared around 1000 years ago. Lamayuru is about 130 km from Leh , and the Indus River flows along th

Omkareshwara Temple, Coorg : A Story and some Thoughts

Kings misusing their power is nothing new, neither in our epics, our history, or even the present. Of course, in the present, the kings are replaced by those in power, but, I digress. Getting back to my story, learning of a king committing outrageous acts is nothing new. Leaning that he killed innocent people is nothing new either, and we would scarcely lift an eyebrow. However, when the spirit of the innocent victim plagues the king, we sit up and take note! That is what makes the story of the Omkareshwara Temple in Coorg interesting.

It was Lingarajendra II, the ruler of Kodagu in the early 1800s, who killed an innocent Brahmin. The reason for the killing isn’t clear. It is mentioned on a plaque in the temple that the man opposed the king’s misdeeds. I also read in a book that the king coveted the Brahmin’s daughter. Whatever the reason, the king spilt an innocent man’s blood. However, the victim was tenacious, even after death, turning into a Brahmarakshas (spirit) and troubling the king. It was easy for Lingarajendra to kill the Brahmin, but he couldn’t cope with the supernatural, and he turned instead to more Brahmins – learned ones, who told him that the only way he could be rid of the spirit was by getting a special lingam from Kashi (Varanasi) and installing it at the spot where he had killed the Brahmin. That was something the king could do. He arranged for a lingam to be brought from Kashi and installed at the very spot. The temple was built and consecrated in 1820, and, it is said, that the spirit troubled him no more!

Interestingly, the temple is built in Islamic style, the dome and minarets towering over the tiled roofs of the city. Inside, the temple is simple, with the shrine holding the main lingam surrounded by one corridor. Opposite the temple is a pond, with a small shrine in the centre, connected by a causeway. There are plenty of fish in the pond, which are a huge attraction for children.

It was late evening when we visited, and a puja was just getting completed. There was all the evidence of a busy temple – bells ringing, the sound of chanting, and the hum of the crowd. It was all over in a few moments, and, by the time we went around the sanctum once, we found that we were the only ones there. At once, it seemed we were in a different time and place – there was calm, peaceful, utter silence.

Standing there in front of the lingam, I wondered about journeys – my own journey, from Mumbai to Coorg, to see Him, He who had once made the journey from Kashi to Kodagu. My journeys bring me peace and happiness, but His journey had brought peace to someone else. Now, whether he deserved it, is another matter entirely!

The temple might have brought some relief to Lingarajendra, but he didn’t live long enough to reap the benefits of the temple. He passed away soon after, and the throne passed to his son, who turned out to be even more cruel than his father. However, the dynasty had little time left in power, for, scarcely 14 years later, in 1834, the British took complete control over Kodagu.

Misdeeds are never forgiven or forgotten, are they? Can they be atoned by building temples or performing sacrifices? What do you think?

  • The temple is located in Madikeri Town. 
  • Timings: 6:30 AM to 12:00 Noon; 5:00 PM to 8:00 PM


  1. Loved reading it. The pics are amazing

  2. This Post Explain How Rich Is our history, The Post Is good.
    just One Question I would Like To ask You Is your Cover Picture Is Of Which Place???

  3. Awesome images, great information

  4. Such a beautiful place

  5. Nice temple. Though I have been to Coorg many times, am yet to visit this temple.

  6. Very interesting. It is queer to find a temple in Islamic style!

  7. Awesome post and nice images!!

    You are writing about Omkareshwara Temple, Coorg. Thanks for Sharing such a nice information its very interesting!!

  8. Well I don't know what to say, if its the power of the place or that bad spirit of the king passed on to others. I had a very bad experience when I visited this temple few years ago. Me along with 9 other "non-kannadiga" friends had been to coorg . This was a photography trip for us (basically to learn & experiment on photography). This temple was recommended by one of my colleague who was from this place. We entered the temple premises & searched for any "No-photography" board. The temple was closed & we had access only to walk around the temple pond. It was noon & no a soul around, we started taking photos & experimenting on photography. All of a sudden a man came, who claimed to be temple priest, started shouting & abusing us for taking photos. As I was the only one who knew kannada, I tried to explain him & say that we are just photo enthusiasts and nothing else. Also I said we did not find any "No photography" board, so we started taking photos. That guy continued to abuse us in bad language & also threatened to beat us with help of locals. We some how managed to get out of that place. It was a very bad experience. I really lost respect for locals of that place because of this idiot.

  9. I'm a muslim & respect all faith. Interesting to know about this unique temple. I was googling for something else but ended up here & learning abt this temple. Thanks

  10. I did visit this temple and found the architecture amusing due to its Islamic influences.

    Rathina's View Space

  11. Good to know. Thanks for the info....I'm travelling to coorg in August. I'll definitely visit this temple :)


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