My first trip to Vaishnodevi was unimpressive. Climbing was hard, and it only served to highlight how badly out of shape I was, while my in-laws managed to cope so much better. Further, I hadn’t quite realized that the cave experience wouldn’t be the same as I had imagined, since the original cave was only opened at certain times a year, and that we only entered a newly created tunnel, one far easier to access, and hence more manageable with the crowds that thronged the mountain shrine. The resulting experience at the shrine, for barely a fraction of a second, hardly compared to what I had expected / imagined / heard about. So, for me, Vaishnodevi was like any other temple, nothing to write home about, something that was reflected (though not explicitly mentioned) in the blog post I wrote then.
In a city filled with palaces and
museums, the Jayalakshmi Vilas is probably the least known palace converted into
a museum. Nestled within the serene environs of the Mysore University, it is
off the regular tourist circuit, which probably explains why it is practically
unknown, even to locals.
The Jayalakshmi Vilas Mansion was
built in 1905, during the reign of Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV, for his sister, the Princess
Jayalakshmi Ammani. She was married to the then Dewan of Mysore State, Kantharaj
Urs, and the mansion is a testament to their exalted status. Spread over six
acres, the mansion has 125 rooms, 300 windows and 287 exquisitely carved doors.
Only a part of this is open to visitors, however, and these portions are now
used as a museum.
The complex has three museums in
all – first, a sculpture gallery, with artefacts collected from all over the
region. The second is a folklore gallery, which is the most interesting, with a
variety of items on display. There are dolls, used some time for a golu, also a
beautiful, mirror covered set of stairs, used for the placement of a golu; there
are some amazing collections of puppets – made of wood, paper, and also cloth. The
section devoted to shadow puppets is especially beautiful. Then, there are the
costumes – used for Yakshagana, and also temple festivals. Unfortunately, photography
is prohibited, so I can’t tempt you to visit the museum with photos. All I can
hope is that my description is enough to tempt you.
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| These Terracotta statues welcome us at the entrance |
The third section is the central
part of the mansion, and it is a splendid sight by itself. The huge central
area, with two levels of balconies overlooking it, serves to remind us that
this was once a palace, built for royals who loved to do everything in style. We
were told that this central area was used for several ceremonies, and even a
marriage. While it isn’t really clear who was married here, it is easy to
imagine the scene, even today. While we didn’t really count the rooms, we
believe Wikipedia, when it says that there are 125 rooms in all, simply because
we walked in and out of so many rooms leading just from this central hall, that
we soon tired even of seeing the interesting items on display. The artifacts on
display here are personal collections of various people – usually dignitaries
of the erstwhile Mysore State, as well as eminent litterateurs and poets from
Mysore. Unfortunately, my knowledge of them is rather sketchy, so I can’t
really give you any insights about this one. We simply roamed around, awed by
the architectural beauty of the mansion.
The mansion’s grandeur tells us
much about the family which lived here. But it tells us little of the people
they were. As one of the properties which found its way to the University,
there is nothing left here of its original inhabitants. Yet, their presence
lingers, especially in little nooks and corners, like a patch of garden, where,
among the overgrown weeds, we can glimpse some tiny headstones.
A closer look, and a helpful
board, reveals that this is a dog-cemetery – and not just some dogs. This is
the resting place of the princess’ favourite pets. An ardent dog lover, she had
many, each of which, over the years were laid to rest here, so near where she
lived. Standing there, you can almost imagine her there, walking in the garden,
pausing for a moment, to remember a pet which lived no more. Some, obviously outlived her, as can be seen from this headstone, but it is good to see that the tradition was carried on, even after she passed on.
Walking out of the gate, this is
the thought I carry away – of a princess who once lived here, in this mansion,
which has such a typically western look from the outside, but is so typically
Indian on the inside. Is that what the princess was like too?
Information:
- The mansion is located within the Mysore University campus, though few people know about it. It is best to get to the campus and then enquire your way to the museum
- The museum is open from 10:30 AM to 5:30 PM on all days. Unfortunately, the museum is short staffed, and doesn’t see much activity, so don’t be surprised if you have to search for someone to let you in.
- You can couple a visit to the museum with a visit to the KukkrehalliKere lake, which is quite nearby.
Nice pictures and wonderful description :)
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Thank you for this. It is always a blessing to find places off the regular tourist map. Stunning Pictures.
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